Amangiri

Why book?

If a luxury hotel on the moon existed, it’d feel something a little like Amangiri. In the ochre canyons of southern Utah, it feels less like a resort and more like a mirage – a minimalist masterpiece carved from desert stone in the middle of a lunar landscape. It’d be easy to assume that its cult-like status is purely down to its aesthetic appeal (and appealing it is – the pool alone deserves its own design award), but there’s so much more to this unique spot. Slick service, world-class cuisine, culturally immersive experiences that feel genuine, and a jaw-dropping setting guarantee to leave you feeling totally renewed. This is the kind of place to leave your phone in your room and fully immerse yourself in the wild, breathtaking nature around you.

Set the scene

My initial disappointment at arriving at Amangiri at night quickly subsides when I hop out of the car and glance upwards; we’re 20 minutes from the nearest town with next to no light pollution, and I’ve never seen a sky so full of stars. The next morning, we’re up early (thank you, jet lag) and get a first glimpse of the jaw-dropping rock formations surrounding us, glowing orange before the sun climbs higher and everything turns pale yellow. Amangiri, meaning ‘peaceful mountain’ in Sanskrit, is set within what was originally national park land, with 165-million-year-old sandstone mesas in every direction. It’s estimated that the Navajo people have lived in the area for nearly 1,000 years – something the hotel proudly celebrates through its menus, and on- and off-site experiences.

The backstory

Aman is known for creating a strong sense of place with their properties. Each one serves as a portal to its destination, with a focus on design, service, food, and spa. Amangiri was created with deep respect for Utah’s striking landscape and local culture, cleverly blending modern architecture – all sharp-angled concrete – with the rugged beauty of the desert to create a seamless harmony between nature and design. Activities are a masterclass in thoughtful, culturally immersive programming, designed to celebrate the Navajo people who have inhabited the land for generations. One highlight of our stay is a morning spent with Eli – a local Navajo guide who leads us through mind-blowing six-million-year-old slot canyons; another is an hour we spent carefully weaving dream catchers under the guidance of Pearl who, like Eli, was born and raised on the Navajo Nation. We sit together, focused on the intricate task at hand, as she explains how her family moved away from the reservation with hopes for access to better education and facilities in the bordering towns.

The rooms

Spartan, minimalistic, and very well appointed. The 34 rooms are a contemporary interpretation of Native American shelters, and keep you focused on the outdoors: our huge, cloud-like bed faces panoramic windows with desert views that seem to go on for days; the terrace has an outdoor fireplace (perfect for toasting s’mores as the sun sets) – even the deep, marble tub has its own view of the landscape. At Camp Sarika – a short walk from the main property – 10 tented pavilions sit nestled next to the cliffs. Each comes with its own plunge pool as well as a golf buggy for whizzing back and forth to the hotel.

Food and drink

Mexico meets Native American, showcasing ingredients such as blue corn, green chilli and prickly pear. One night, we head to Camp Sarika, where five courses of Mexican fare are perfectly presented in front of dramatic desert views; the next, we’re tucking into blue corn polenta and elk tenderloin in the hotel’s main restaurant. You’re in the hinterlands of the West, so expect to eat most meals at Amangiri – it’s all-inclusive.

The spa

Heavenly. Guests enter the spa reception via a dark corridor lit only by fire and candlelight, before therapists scoop you up and lead you to one of the moody, wood-panelled treatment rooms. Each treatment begins with a white sage burning ritual – a local practice intended to cleanse and heal. I’m not sure if it’s the sage, the jetlag, the expertise of my therapist or a combination of the three, but I nod off several times during my soothing massage.

The area

This might be the most unique place I’ve ever woken up in. Each morning, I pad across the bedroom, fling open the curtains and stand in disbelief as the morning sun hits the jagged, sky-high rocks in the distance. Occasionally, a bird circles and swoops overhead; one morning, a hare hops by the window. We’re slap bang in the middle of the Colorado Plateau in Utah, 25 minutes from the nearest town of Page, 150 miles from Flagstaff airport and 300 miles from Phoenix. The landscape is dotted with towering ancient sand dunes, hardened over an unfathomable 65 billion years. In short, I’m in the middle of nowhere. And it’s glorious.

The service

Flawless, naturally. The team are personable without ever feeling overbearing, whether welcoming you poolside with a cool box full of chilled waters and drinks menus, or greeting you in the morning before helping you plan a day of activities.

Eco effort

There’s a genuine feeling that Amagiri makes a conscious effort to support local communities and integrate the resort into the environment sensitively. The resort sticks to the International Dark-Sky Association's (IDA) guidelines, ensuring all lighting across the property is respectful of the night sky and minimises light pollution. Educational stargazing sessions are on offer, which are organised in collaboration with a local observator. Naturally, single-use plastics are nonexistent. All of the aluminium water bottles and packaging from deliveries are recycled, and 100 per cent of the food waste is donated to a local wildlife organisation.

Accessibility

Much of the main hotel is accessible for wheelchair users, with ramps for the entrance and front desk, restaurant, pool and spa / fitness centre. There are two accessible desert view suites, each with widened doors, roll-in rain showers and grab bars

Anything left to mention?

Amangiri is family-friendly, with books, games and pool toys available on request as well as a babysitting service.