Buahan, a Banyan Tree Escape

Why book?

For complete submersion into the Balinese vivid green jungle, with a “no walls, no doors” concept, only a linen curtain divides you from the outdoors – let the canopy become your soundtrack.

Set the scene

Buhan sits 40 minutes north of Ubud in the centre of Bali, but it’s considerably wilder. There are 16 one-bedroom private villas, known as balés, each with private plunge pools nestled high into the hillside of the Balinese jungle with uninterrupted views of the six peaks and tall layered working rice paddies with a flowing river meandering through the valley below. Woven paths lined with delicate ferns, bromeliads and other native flora all lead to the main house at the centre of the resort. A beautiful open-air wooden structure with a fully stocked bar, a restaurant and a communal infinity pool lined with red fringed parasols stretch into the jungle's palms.

The backstory

Many years before construction began, Buhan locals studied the topography and natural environment to design and build a hotel that worked with its surroundings and helped the native surroundings flourish rather than disturbing its path. Years later, the team built a design-led hotel while ensuring they abided by all possible sustainable practices, from utilising natural water resources to motion lighting to reduce energy consumption.

The rooms

First things first, the no walls thing isn’t a joke. So, if the occasional lizard or beetle wandering into your sleeping quarters gives you a shiver, this one might not be for you. For those looking to embrace the wilderness and the weather elements it throws at you, this is the most exceptional experience. Spacious, high-beamed villas with an open plan design feature a traditional hand-carved bed at the centre, with its own air-con system fitted above to keep you cool at night, an indoor-outdoor double-headed shower space with pebbled flooring and a lounging area for kicking back and doing a whole lot of nothing. There’s no shortage of views with the bed, free-standing bath, and seating in the room all facing out to the bright, sunny Balinese sky and vast foliage. Each villa is also kitted out with a private pool, with a cosy shaded area for lounging and a firepit for cooler evenings. Come dusk, staff draw heavy white linen curtains around the bed to stop the critters from getting in, as well as around the villa's facade for privacy and, most importantly, to prevent unexpected four-legged jungle guests.

Food and drink

With an extensive vegetarian influence, the menu is 70 per cent plant-based and embraces the land and the local flavours available. A little private garden at the top of the resort supplies the restaurant with 80 per cent of its seasonal ingredients, including plenty of homegrown vegetables and garnishing; if not grown here, ingredients will be sourced from organic farms within 55km, keeping things fresh and sustainable. Chef Sheandy Satria has a zero-waste approach to his cooking, using exciting ingredients like watermelon rind (surprisingly tasty) and banana blossom. Menus are more like a tasting menu than singular big dishes (not that these aren’t available). Breakfast comprises five intricate small plates: roasted sweet potato with honey and granola, duck eggs on sourdough, and plantain with cashew cream. Dinner takes the same format – expect a menu of around six courses of delicate, delicious dishes.

Wellness

Two bamboo spa rooms discreetly sit at the bottom of the resort with two linen-topped massage beds in each and a balcony with two chairs and foot baths that look onto the valley below. Treatments begin with warming home-brewed cinnamon and clove tea, sipping while therapists apply a natural food scrub, and then massaging and washing the feet and legs while the smell of lemongrass lingers. Scents of choice are mixed with coconut oil and applied during treatments. From head detox body wraps to stimulating personalised massages, doze off to the sound of the jungle. Or if you’re looking for something a little more active, there's sunrise yoga and sound healing classes for early risers.

The area

You won’t find much but rice fields beyond the confines of the hotel – perfect for trekking around. There are very few locals in Buahan village, with the population increasing as you head closer to Ubud. A daily shuttle runs to Ubud (40 minutes drive away), a popular tourist hotspot with many cafes, an art market, a monkey forest and elegant temples decorated with flowers and dotted with traditional daily offerings.

The service

A warm welcome into Balinese culture. Service is thorough, personalised and always with a smile. Local staff take care of all the minor details, from remembering a coffee order in the morning to leaving personalised notes and amenities in the room during turn down.

Who comes here?

With an adults-only policy and a low occupancy rate, it’s for those looking to escape the noise and replace it with the sound of critters chirping and birds singing. You won’t see guests apart from at meal times; everyone is here to disconnect, keep themselves to themselves and enjoy the company of their other half in the privacy of their own villas.

For families

This is an adults-only hotel with all rooms sleeping two people.

Eco effort

Even before construction began, sustainability was at the forefront of the hotel’s conception. Circulating money back into the community is just one of the ways the hotel helps the locals. It does this through various initiatives including employing and training local staff in the hospitality industry, the firefly project which involves working with scientists to increase the firefly population and encourage biodiversity, and offering guests the opportunity to embark on a local-led adventure to learn about Balinese culture and traditions.

Accessibility

This hotel is not accessible for wheelchair users.

Anything else to mention?

While most guests come here to hibernate, switch off and not leave the hotel vicinity for the entire stay (there’s even a waterfall on site you can walk to), others looking for adventure should take advantage of the excursions Buhan has so carefully put together from adventure sunrise road biking up the mountain to a cultural visit guided by a local to learn about Balinese customs, sample local produce and learn about farming and irrigation techniques. We recommend engaging in at least one activity during your stay.

Is it worth it?

Totally. Forget about emails, tech, time and people, in fact – cosy up and hideaway with nothing but the lush jungle views to distract you from downtime.