Chiva-Som

Why book?

Many of the doctors, therapists and fitness team have been here for decades, and the Chiva-Som ethos, balancing mental and physical wellbeing, is deeply embedded in their DNA. You won’t find a more knowledgeable, caring and kind team than this one. This is bolstered by a rotating programme of master healers and yoga teachers who spend between two weeks and a month at the resort.

Set the scene

Most guests land in Bangkok, are greeted airside and whisked to a classic car for the three and a half hour drive to Hua Hin, a busy beach resort. It’s been popular since the Thai royal family put it on the map in the 1920s, and it still has some charms, though you’re unlikely to experience its bars and markets as guests tend to stay cocooned in this wellness bubble. The hotel does allow external visitors, but there aren’t many of them. You’ll be surrounded by all ages, from high-powered boomers, most of whom will have stayed several times before, to sporty thirtysomethings. Even so, this isn’t a place for designer labels and high heels. After a day of spaghetti-fying massages, it’s all most guests can do to pull on a loose shirt and trousers or a cover-up sarong.

The backstory

Chiva-Som's founder, Boonchu Rojanastien, was a prominent banker, former Deputy Prime Minister of Thailand, and fitness enthusiast. In the early 1990s, after experiencing various health retreats in Europe, he decided to create a wellness resort of his own. He then bulldozed the family’s beach house in Hua Hin and set to work. In 1995, it opened as a private weekend retreat, primarily for family and friends, with a strong emphasis on healthy living. Ever the businessman, Rojanastien realised there was a genuine appetite for wellness, and so this germ of an idea quickly grew into Chiva-Som. In 1995, its design was cutting edge, and it was soon attracting A-list guests such as Kate Moss, who helped cement its position internationally. Thirty years on, while hedge funds have taken over many of the big-name spa resorts, Chiva-Som remains proudly family owned and run with Boonchu’s son Kris and grandson Win now running the business.

The rooms

It remains essentially a traditional Thai resort, with palm trees, charming bridges over tranquil ornamental fish ponds, pavilion-style accommodations, and an abundance of sparkling white, polished teak, and luminous silks. Ed Tuttle, best known for his groundbreaking work with ultra-luxe Aman Resorts, refreshed Chiva-Som’s look in 2020. His £18 million revamp injected a welcome freshness, introducing a cream, blonde wood and gold leaf moodboard, accessorised by Thai silks and subdued lighting. The 54 rooms feel uplifting and serene, but some of the original rooms can feel a little cramped and dated. The rooms to bag are the more private and spacious Thai pavilions set among the lush gardens. Some of the ocean rooms overlook the garden, while the majority offer views of the Gulf of Thailand. All terraces and balconies provide a welcome outdoor space. All come with super-efficient, charming butlers who keep the complimentary minibars topped up with healthy snacks and juices. All guests also have up to four items a day washed, expertly ironed and speedily returned for free.

Food and drink

Most meals are taken at the beachfront Taste of Siam restaurant. A table on the terrace comes with a decent side order of people watching with local families and fellow holidaymakers strolling on the sand, almost within touching distance, with the occasional motorcyclist and horse rider adding interest. Meals here are a mix of buffet and à la carte options. Breakfast ticks all the boxes from healthy versions of pastries to steaming khao tom rice soups, and from tasty smoothies to virtuous herbal teas. At lunch and dinner, there are always plenty of salads, a mix of Asian and European-style dishes, and some unusual Western options, such as Irish stew. However, if you stick to the incredible Thai cuisine, which includes delicious satays and spicy pad Thai, you’ll feel happy and satisfied. Desserts are a speciality, the raw chocolate mousse and superfood sorbet are wonderfully moreish. The Emerald Room is only open for dinner, and as it has no outdoor seating, it’s rarely crowded. It offers a fun Thai spin on fondue, for which skewered vegetables and chunks of fish, chicken or beef are cooked in the Chiva-Som Siam Steamboat, a pot of fragrant soup made with Hua Hin coconut water, and served with spicy sauces. With a five-to-one staff-to-guest ratio, service is attentive throughout. Wine and champagne are served after 6pm. Most people don’t drink.

Wellness

The resort makes the most of its seven acres, with facilities inveigled into every possible nook and cranny as well as across several buildings. This place is super serious about therapy, with a staggering 70 treatment rooms and more than 200 treatments, from the latest radio-frequency facials to ancient Chinese abdominal massages, all carried out to the highest standards by well-trained therapists. The physiotherapy department is the star of the show, and a physio-led massage is a must for all guests, not just those with long-term back pain or rehabilitating after injury. The gym offers up to eight daily complimentary workouts, ranging from HIIT to dance-based cardio, as well as coaching in various activities, including Nordic walking and aqua boxing. Also book a Super Stretch with one of the personal trainers to help you swerve post-work muscle ache and leave limbs feeling like lengths of spaghetti. Yoga is held in an outdoor studio, a short walk from the spa, with internationally renowned teachers. However, Chiva-Som is no longer rooted in the past. The Niranlada Medi-Spa offers cosmetic procedures, including ultrasound facelifts and fat reduction treatments, as well as hyperbaric oxygen therapy and skin cancer screenings.

The area

Hua Hin is a classic Thai beach resort with plenty of bars and markets. It’s laidback, the crime rate is low, and temperatures hover around 28 degrees year-round. There’s a vibrant arts scene, with galleries and regular exhibitions, but there’s plenty of active options on offer too, including golf and water sports. Chiva-Som can also arrange a visit to a tailor to get custom-made clothes. Hua Hin’s four-mile stretch of beach is lined with low-rise luxury hotels and has a nice buzz from early morning to late in the evening.

The service

The flamboyant GM, Vaipanya Kongkwanyuen, has worked for luxury brands such as Four Seasons and Aman Resorts, and has been in place at Chiva-Som since 2018. He is omnipresent and sets a tone of refined fun. Service is razor sharp and charming. Ask for a copy of the exercises your physio showed you, for example, and your super-efficient butler will have illustrated instructions laminated and sent to your room within minutes. You will become completely infantilised by the efficiency of this team. Getting back to the airport can be a shock.

For families

Chiva-Som has recently opened its doors to children 14 and over, having previously been adult-only. These teenagers can expect the same care and attention afforded to adults.

Eco effort

It uses renewable energy where possible and employs water-saving technologies and smart irrigation systems. Rainwater is harvested, and wastewater is filtered for carbon and sand to replenish the resort's lake levels and support plant irrigation. It uses recycled wood products and biodegradable packaging where possible. Other plastics, glass, metal and paper products are sent to local recycling centres. Organic waste is converted into animal feed for local farmers and compost for the resort’s gardens. It also funds a mangrove restoration project.

Accessibility

The resort has an accessible room, lifts to all floors, and the main restaurant has a level entrance and an accessible toilet.

Anything left to mention?

Don’t be tempted to take the short flight from Bangkok to Hua Hin’s airport. Although it’s a long drive from the capital, it ends up taking no longer, and the transfer car is stocked with all sorts of healthy goodies to eat and drink en route.