El Questro Homestead

Why book?

There is perhaps no better place on the Australian continent for travellers to learn about the history of the land and its people. Covering an impressive 400,000 acres, El Questro Homestead is located within El Questro Station, a cattle ranch in the Kimberley region. In 2022, the Homestead was returned to the Ngarinyin people, the traditional landowners, under an Indigenous Land Use Agreement (ILUA), and simultaneously, a 99-year tourist usage right was granted. Since then, El Questro has been working closely with the local community to develop special tourist activities and create training opportunities for Indigenous employees.

The scene

Totalling more than 700,000 acres, El Questro Station lies within the larger El Questro Wilderness Park. Both are far from civilisation, with no cell phone reception and no light pollution. Visitors on excursions instead encounter red rock formations and rugged cliffs, as well as rivers, waterfalls, and hot springs, along with rare plants and animals. And very few people. The Kimberley region is one of the most sparsely populated corners of the world. El Questro Homestead is situated in the heart of the park, perched atop a cliff overlooking a Chamberlain River gorge. As you sit on the plateau sipping an evening cocktail, with a little luck, you’ll spot crocodiles in the water below.

The backstory

The region itself has been inhabited longer than any other in Australia. There is evidence that the first Aboriginal people settled in this area more than 40,000 years ago. In 1913, the land was taken from them with the establishment of El Questro cattle station. Tourist development began in the early 1990s by a couple who gradually expanded the site into a remote resort. Ownership has changed a few times since, and in 2012, El Questro Homestead joined the Luxury Lodges of Australia, a collection of properties, camps, and expedition ships with the shared goal of bringing a limited number of guests to Australia’s most remote and pristine places.

Rooms and suites

El Questro Homestead accommodates up to 20 guests in the elegant Gorgeview and Homestead rooms with private decks as well as spacious suites with panoramic views. The highlight of the Cliffside Retreats is freestanding outdoor bathtubs. A bubble bath in the Outback? Highly recommended.

Food and drink

As it is located hundreds of miles away from the nearest supermarket, you might expect the culinary offerings to be lacking. El Questro Homestead operates smoothly, producing incomparable meals despite the challenges. The full breakfast menu ranges from avocado toast to omelettes, while at lunch, you can choose from a variety of salads. The three-course dinner is served family style, accompanied by excellent Australian wines, such as Henschke and Shaw + Smith. Sampled at the bar over aperitifs, the appetisers like kangaroo tartare steal the show. Getting to know the Indigenous food culture is also part of the El Questro Homestead experience, with opportunities to sample local products like pepper berries, barramundi seabass, and bush tomatoes – all of them delicious.

Service

Friendly would be an understatement. A few days at El Questro Homestead is all it takes to get to know many of the staff who will help to make your stay unforgettable. That’s partly due to the exclusivity of the lodge itself. With few guests, employees naturally have plenty of chances to interact with and get to know every guest. People come from all over the world to work here for a season, or sometimes several (the lodge is only open during the dry season from April to October). Everyone has their own story to tell about how they came to this remote place, as they also introduce you to El Questro itself.

Sustainability

El Questro Homestead follows a comprehensive approach to sustainability as it pursues its goal of becoming a carbon-neutral operation. The lodge also focuses on environmental management in the areas of climate risk and biodiversity. Rangers and traditional owners work together on a technique called cultural burning that reduces the risk of bushfires and protects valuable habitats.

Accessibility

El Questro Homestead has one accessible room. Although there are no designated accessible tours, activities are individually tailored for each guest.

Anything else to mention?

In line with El Questro’s goal of sharing the history of the land and its people, the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us program isn’t a lecture, a master class, or a theatrical presentation, but rather a blend of all three. The format was developed by the traditional landowners Mary and Nelson O’Reeri, and their daughter Shonelle. They share Nelson's grandmother’s life story, detailing how she grew up on this land, how it was taken away from her by cattlemen, and how she found her son again decades after he was forced into a state home. As you listen, you’ll learn a lot about the challenges and hopes that life holds for many Aboriginal people today. You will likely be deeply moved, and the memories may stay with you for even months after you have returned home.