Four Seasons Astir Palace

Why book?

To live out The White Lotus fantasies on the Med's coolest coastline right now.

Set the scene

Appearing from the pine trees which bathe the behemoth white complex in seclusion, Four Seasons Astir Palace peeps over the inky blues of the Aegean stretching endlessly as far as the eye can see. Like with many hotels that benefit smugly from a seafront location, the setup is topsy-turvy – the swanky lobby at the top, with rooms on the floors below before, finally, down to the main event, the sweeping pool and private beach. As we arrive, our bags are whisked away and we steal glances out over the sprawling grounds, our eyes drawn to the creamy cabanas and day beds dotted around the water. Snoozing jet-setters, Four Seasons loyalists clinking cocktail glasses and merrily splashing (but well-behaved) kids are already making the most of the late September sun, beckoning us to join them.

The backstory

First built in the 1960s, the modernist, geometric structures which make up Astir Palace have long been fabled on this corner of the Greek coast. About 40 minutes from Athens, it was once the backdrop for Hollywood stars (Brigitte Bardot, Jackie Onassis, Frank Sinatra) and royalty to rub shoulders. In 2019, the resort was taken under Four Seasons' wing. A $700 million renovation didn't just put Astir Palace back on the global jet-set's radar; it kickstarted a renaissance along the Athens Riviera. Today, it's one of the buzziest shorelines in Europe – but this pioneering property retains its title as the glitziest of all the hotels that have hot-footed it to open nearby. Four Seasons has leaned into the mid-century architecture with a retro-chic makeover that alludes to its Sixties-glamour heyday at every turn.

The rooms

Reaching our room felt like navigating the corridors of a cruise ship, and the layout inside only adds to the at-sea vibe. The vast space brings the colour palette outside (sandy creams, Aegean blues) in, creating a muted, soft retreat from the baking sun. This was my first time checking into a Four Seasons hotel, so I barely contained child-like excitement when I noticed that the enormous bed came with requisite monogrammed pillows. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the ocean led out to a balcony begging to be used for sundowner pre-dinner drinks. I won't bore on about the expected up-to-the-minute amenities (iPad, coffee machine and so on) but all were present and correct. Sinking into a famous Four Seasons mattress (so good you can buy them for a cool $2,750 to recreate the experience at home) after supper and waking up to the sky turning pink across the water was one of the most luxurious experiences I've ever had in a hotel.

Food and drink

Varied and always on-point. Of the six on-site restaurants, we sampled four during our two-night stay. Mercato, the Italian, has tables scattered across a top-floor terrace: perfect for romantic suppers where you spend more time gazing at the horizon than at your beau (this is also where the exquisite breakfast is served). Set just back from the main swimming pool, Helios has a beach-club vibe with a peppy soundtrack and Latin American dishes such as zingy ceviche and moreish tacos made for sharing (I can also vouch for their Margaritas). For anyone who's committed to a full-day slipping between the pool and a sun lounger, Kyma's menu is filled with crowd-pleasing favourites like club sandwiches and burritos, making it an excellent choice for anyone with fussy kids to please. My favourite of the bunch was Taverna 37, a seafront spot modelled on a classic local taverna, which is reached by golf buggy from the main building. Here, order juicy lamb chops, grilled octopus or Athenian hero dishes like Saganaki.

The spa

Ancient Greek healing traditions are spotlighted at the spa, where a crack team pummel muscles into submission in massages and revitalise skin in facials, as well as offering specialised treatment such as cupping, body wraps and hot stone treatments. Guests can book onto group wellness classes (we tried early morning yoga, held in a cabana overlooking the sea) or pay extra for private tuition and personal training.

The neighbourhood

Astir Palace is one of those resorts which makes it difficult to find a reason to leave. I've never been much for fly-and-flop holidays, but I fully leaned into the blissful relaxation of a few days here with nothing to do but read on a daybed, and no decisions to make other than whether I wanted to cool off in the sea or the pool (the answer is, of course, always both). With a gym, spa, fitness classes, kids' club and six restaurants on-site, it's hard to imagine why guests would need to go anywhere else. If you'd like to explore Athens, it's about 40 minutes away by car, and hotel staff are happy to arrange transfers.

The service

Efficient and warm staff remember your coffee order at breakfast and are always contactable through the Four Seasons app.

Is it worth it?

This is still one of the glossiest resorts on the Athens Riviera – for Four Seasons comfort, The White Lotus glamour and a taste of the Greek good life, this is a treat-yourself stay you won't forget.