Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria

Why book?

For one of the best views on the Sorrentine Peninsula.

Set the scene

Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria lords over the Sorrentine Peninsula. Peeping over the Bay of Naples from its clifftop perch, sequestered from Piazza Tasso’s hustle and bustle by perfumed orange groves. Through the marble lobby, it’s natural to be drawn to the terrace, where stone busts watch carefully and, beyond them, the inky sea unfolds. But there’s more to uncover here, including a Michelin-starred restaurant, a spa and groomed gardens, among others. From the curvy swimming pool, you can gaze at the classical buildings and daydream about the many, starry lives Vittoria has lived for 190 years and counting, although snoozing on the striped sunloungers is just as valid a choice.

The backstory

How far back are we talking? This is the site where, according to legend, Augustus, founder of the Roman Empire, once built his villa – apparently as besotted with the views of Vesuvius as modern-day guests are. Fast forward a few thousand years: as the tradition of the Grand Tour reached its 19th-century peak, the Fiorentino family built the first of three buildings to accommodate well-to-do travellers, opening La Vittoria in 1834. A second building, La Rivale, followed in 1882, and the third – the curiously Swiss-style La Favorita – was built in the early 20th century. Today, fifth-generation Fiorentinos are the custodians of this old-world, grandest of grand hotels, nearing its 200th anniversary.

The rooms

Classic, with antique furniture set against a Sorrentine paint palette of blues and whites. The Fiorentino family have overseen meticulous renovations which restored their shine with faithful deference to its old-world elegance. Some rooms have views over the lush gardens; others gaze out at the fishing boats bobbing in the harbour; the best have sunny terraces and read like a roll-call of the hotel’s famous guests (the Pavarotti Suite, the Caruso Suite, the Margaret Suite).

Food and drink

Laid-back suppers at Terrazza Vittoria make a song and dance of Campanian produce at lunch, with on-point yet simple plates such as spaghetti in a San Marzano tomato sauce or lentil soup. All-night affairs at Michelin-starred Terrazza Bosquet elevate local recipes – tasting menus might include Sorrento-style gnocchi or risotto with cuttlefish lard. Come morning, breakfast under the frescoes at Ristorante Vittoria is a heady procession of homemade cakes and marmalades.

The spa

Perhaps the most relaxing setting for a spa on this stretch of the Amalfi Coast, the wellness centre here sits in a 19th-century greenhouse surrounded by more of those olive groves and orange trees. Facials and massages use products from Swiss beauty brand Valmont.

The area

Perhaps my favourite thing about bedding down at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria was its location, in the needlepoint-centre of Sorrento. Or rather, I loved that it allowed me to wake up early, as the sun was tinting the sky pink, and explore the cobbled lanes and pretty squares before the day trippers arrived in earnest. Getting to experience a destination which has become a firm favourite for travellers before most of those travellers arrive for the day is a true luxury and privilege. The hotel’s central location also meant that, once those streets started to heave, I could squirrel away back to the gardens and terraces back at base, gazing at those views without once feeling an elbow in my shoulder blades. Bliss.

The service

Warm and efficient, offering to show you around the historic corners of the hotel, remembering coffee orders at breakfast, and recommending dishes on the menu as if cooking supper in their own home.

Accessibility

Rooms are wheelchair accessible, and there are lifts to take guests between floors.

Anything left to mention?

There’s a lift which deposits guests 50 metres down to the seafront, where you can charter a boat to give you a different perspective on the coastline.