Il Salviatino, Florence, Italy

Why book?

For a real taste of Renaissance Italy, with the best views in all of Florence.

Set the scene

Hidden among the rolling hills of Fiesole, this hotel is set in centuries-old gardens with breathtaking views across the city of Florence. Each of the 39 rooms have been designed with the hotel’s history in mind – delicately painted murals, majestic marble bathrooms, modern pops of colour throughout and, most importantly, windows wherever possible, looking out across the lush Florentine countryside and over to the towering Duomo and terracotta-roofed houses of the city.

The backstory

The whole estate is teeming with local history. The property dates back to the 15th century, when it was home to some of Italy's most illustrious families. The Bardi family (behind the bank, Compagnia dei Bardi) transformed it from a farmhouse into the majestic building that still stands today. A century later, the family was replaced by Alamanno Salviati – one of Florence’s most famous cardinals, who embellished the villa with decadent frescoes and artwork, dubbing it Villa Il Salviatino – before falling to Ugo Ojetti in the early 20th century, a poet, journalist and general man-about-town who invited the brightest minds of the time to join him in the villa, including Salvador Dalí and Gabriele D’Annunzio. After a brief spell as an academic hub (it was used as Stanford’s Italian HQ in the seventies), it was bought by the Rovati family, and has since been the passion project of the family’s matriarch and events organiser, Alessandra Rovati Vitali.

The rooms

The rooms are pretty spectacular. A serious restoration project has breathed new life into the estate, bringing together the building’s impressive legacy and local significance with modern touches and interior know-how. We stayed in a Deluxe room, a pristine, light-filled vision of layered fabrics, colours and textures, all bathed in glorious Tuscan sunlight from the impressive floor-to-ceiling windows with breathtaking views of the duomo and the Florence skyline. Equally impressive were the soft paintings and trompe l’oeil artistry adorning the walls – blink and you’ll miss it, but the subtle addition adds a level of detail and thought that brings the space together beautifully.

Each of the 39 rooms have a different character, in keeping with the overall style of the house, with modern touches throughout. “I love the old Italian design, old Italian design,” Alessandra tells us. “All the historic Italian residences have passed through changes of hands and seen different trends, and it’s very important to see the mark each stage has left, so you can see the age and the evolution of interior design. I like to use history as inspiration, and go from there. For this place, a 15th-century palazzo, it felt very severe, so slowly I’ve tried to add a touch of femininity to it. Introduce some freshness, but retain the essence.”

The food and drink

The Rosa Bar is just off the villa’s central atrium. The old mahogany bar with a beautiful marble top is the main event, with gilded shelves stacked high with various spirits, surrounded by green banquettes bathed in soft light from overhanging lamps. The main restaurant, Da Giacomo, is on the terrace, with more of those Florence skyline views. The menu skews Milanese, with an emphasis on hearty, Italian classics and plenty of seafood. There’s a pool bar for cocktails and nibbles, and an organic kitchen garden, providing seasonal vegetables and herbs for the main restaurant.

The spa

Underneath the property lies perhaps the best-kept secret in Fiesole. In what used to be the palazzo’s wine cellar, now sits a pink-hued oasis. It’s a new addition to the hotel, but one that truly adds a whole new dimension. Alessandra designed the space to be an exclusive retreat – guests book a treatment, and then get the entire spa to themselves to soak, steam and sauna in total peace. The therapists reminded us that no one would interrupt us, and the spa was designed for guests to enjoy the experience fully unclothed. “I decided to work with rose pink marble because I think when you are naked in a spa, you should not be aware of your body – it should feel natural, part of the experience,” Alessandra explained. “The marble reflects the colour of the skin, so you can be relaxed and not exposed.”

In the spa, treatments take place in a domed greenhouse room, which at first, feels exposing, but the glass is fully covered by lush greenery and plants, so your modesty is well protected. Treatments use Augustinus Bader products, and are tailored specifically to each guest requirements. Underground is the spa, complete with a traditional sauna, infrared unwind, surrounded by lush greenery and the scents of the garden.

The service

The team here are endlessly kind and constantly available. There’s a shuttle that takes guests to and from the city centre (the drive only takes 10 minutes), and staff will happily give local recommendations of restaurants, bars, and activities to do in Florence, or arrange tours and trips in the Tuscan countryside.

Eco effort

It’s tricky to create a totally sustainable hotel when occupying such an old property, but Il Salviatino makes a good go of it. They’ve adapted the property where possible, using local, seasonal produce (some even grown in-house), and eco-friendly cleaning products. In the restoration project, they added in energy-efficient heating and lighting systems, and of course, retained the villa’s architecture and design details. More could be done, for sure, but it’s a good start, and staff are eager to explain the ways in which they’re trying to improve.

Accessibility

Similarly, accessibility is always tricky in older buildings. There is a junior suite that is wheelchair accessible and there is accessible parking, but more attention could be spent making sure guests with all kinds of disabilities are catered to, and more adaptive care is taken around the property (I don’t imagine the spa or pool areas are accessible for those with mobility issues).

Anything left to mention?

Come for the views, the incredible spa and the dreamy rooms. It’s a perfect place to embrace Tuscan heritage among the tranquil countryside, with easy access to Florence city centre.