Kinondu Kwetu

Why book?

Indigenous Digo communities have worshipped Kenya’s Indian Ocean coastline for hundreds of years. Now, travellers are discovering why the area is worthy of praise. Spilling onto the secluded Galu Beach, where Diani’s angel-white sands continue but crowds and nagging hawkers have trailed away, this family-owned retreat has a big heart and soul. While Zanzibar heaves and groans under the weight of fancy new hotel openings, Kenya’s laidback shores offer a slower-paced alternative. Trendsetters fly north to Lamu; fly-and-flop enthusiasts swarm around Mombasa, but in this sleepy southern sector, a dreamy beach resort has organically evolved.

Set the scene

Scattered along the beachfront, where waves fizz only metres away, bigger villas back a collection of beach cabins. Draping from doorways, light linens billow in the trade winds and colobus monkeys scamper in treetops overhead. Beaded statues, clay sculptures, carved instruments and wooden masks are part of a West African art collection amassed over the years. Discover pieces along winding, sandy paths and pine-shaded trails that lead to secluded spots, perfect for sinking into cushioned daybeds or drifting away in a hammock with a good book.

But lazy days aren’t always inactive. A tennis court, horse stables, skate park (a surprising but fun addition) and outdoor gym provide the tools to get energy levels soaring. Brush up on racquet skills with a coach, perform downward dogs on a clifftop and take starry midnight rides through the surf.

The backstory

Although their roots are in the Nordics, the owners have long-reaching links with Kenya. Swedish nobleman Baron Blixen (husband of ‘Out of Africa’ author Karen, who moved to Nairobi with his wife to start a coffee plantation) was a distant relative. An opportunity for Ida and Filip Andersson to start their own East African business came in 2004 when a family friend decided to sell a small lodge they’d been running on the coast – now operating as Kinondo Kwetu.

“The small village we are in needed us and we needed them,” says Ida, who believes a spirit of community is central to every aspect of the business. The idea was to create a high-end post-safari beach escape as an alternative to Zanzibar and provide employment opportunities for people living in the surrounding area. Soon, the business became a family home with play areas and relaxation zones organically evolving from the needs of the dynamic couple and their three young children. Doors to this “kwetu” (meaning “our place” in Swahili) have always been wide open to visitors who quickly become part of an extended family.

The rooms

Every guest wakes up to the sound of waves tickling the shore, but no four walls are the same. Closest to the sea is a cluster of thatched cottages, including one two-floor set-up suitable for families. Individual rooms can also be booked in two stone-floored villas, where doors are never locked. All are decorated with weathered woods, embroidered cushions and Arabian-style metal lanterns. The latest addition to the lodge is the more modern Scandi-styled Alex villa with a private pool, available for exclusive use bookings.

Food and drink

A philosophy of homegrown hospitality extends to the kitchen, where mighty efforts have been made to use local organic ingredients. Wooden dhows sailing along the coastline deliver fresh catch, vegetables are grown in a vertical garden inside a greenhouse, and cakes worthy of a Swedish fika are baked onsite.

Depending on sun, shade and mood, meals can be taken in different locations – in the main lodge, on a private veranda or between the bulbous trunks of baobabs. A favourite spot is a beached dhow dressed with colourful kanga fabrics bearing Swahili proverbs. Head to the top of a watchtower to toast the sunset with a syrupy honey-laced Dawa and samosas squeezed with lime.

The spa

Although there’s no dedicated spa, wellness activities are part of a daily schedule. Start the day with guided sunrise yoga sessions on a clifftop platform or work out with weights in a sea-view gym. Massages and treatments can be arranged in quiet spaces around the lodge. Digging into their Nordic roots, Ida and Filip also built a sauna, which some confused members of the local community initially mistook for a giant bread oven.

The area

A hot contender for a Bacardi advert, Diani fizzed with popularity in the 1980s. But a tide of enthusiasm ebbed away, leaving the shells of empty properties behind. Slowly, the area is revitalising. Rattling tuk-tuks shuttle between bars and restaurants in the main drag of Ukunda, but a 30-minute drive south, the coast remains peaceful and pristine.

Connecting roots with Bantu tribes, the Digo community continue to protect forests lovingly referred to as ‘kayas’ – meaning home. Filled with native trees, butterflies and a tangle of liana vines, one of these sacred spaces can be found a short walk from Kinondo Kwetu. Swapping sand for soil, I visited with a local guide who loaned me a black cloth to tie around my waist – worn as a sign of respect. I listened to legends, learned about medicinal herbs and experienced the energising joy of hugging a tree. “It wakes me up when I’m tired,” whispered my guide. A natural high.

The service

A genuine sense of pride and passion binds this committed team together. Hired from the surrounding community and trained on site, housekeepers, cooks, and bar staff are part of a big family welcoming guests into their shared home. Everyone belongs to a union, ensuring they are paid fairly and never forced to work overtime.

Eco effort

Investment in renewable energy sources, waste management systems, and creative recycling initiatives demonstrates a long-term commitment to protecting the sacred land and sea where Kinondo Kwetu is situated. However, the team has taken it one step further by making it easier for local community members to get involved, compensating them for beach clean-ups and providing an incinerator for general use.

One of Kinondo Kwetu’s proudest achievements has been the foundation of a local hospital, where more than 1000 babies were delivered in a year, malaria infections are cured, and pre-cancerous lesions are identified using AI methods developed in collaboration with Swedish researchers.

As part of a collaboration with conservation group Diani Turtle Watch, several eggs are relocated to the beach, and guests can witness hatchings between March and May.

Accessibility

The very nature of being a sandy beach hotel makes wheelchair access challenging – although not entirely impossible. The property has accommodated guests with a range of accessibility needs, and special care can be arranged in conjunction with the nearby hospital, funded by the lodge’s trust.

Family

A playground for all ages, every aspect of Kinondo Kwetu has been road-tested by a member of the Andersson family. The couple’s three young children were raised here before heading to school in Europe. All age groups are welcome, and children under five years old, sharing a room with their parents, are offered an all-inclusive stay without any additional charge.

There are no strong currents, making the beach safe enough for even new swimmers, but there’s also a large communal pool where children are welcome. Low tide is ideal for snorkelling sessions along the reef, while high tide serves up the best conditions for boogie boarding sessions.

Children over eight years old can take their first dip into the marine underworld with a PADI Bubblemaker scuba course, while other options for young outdoor enthusiasts include canoeing, horse-riding and tennis coaching. A team of trained local nannies can also step in to give parents time off.