Maçakizi

Why book?

To stay at Bodrum’s original insider address and slip directly into the Aegean.

Set the scene

To say Maçakızı has a vibe is like saying the Aegean is blue. Technically true, but there’s more to it. This is the stuff of legend: a hotel that began as a bohemian haven in the ’70s, is now Bodrum’s grand dame glamourpuss. The hotel is a discreet sprawl of white cottages and stone pathways, hidden under bougainvillaea, that seem to tumble directly into the yacht-dotted bay. It’s a place silver-haired regulars and jet set insiders come every summer to brown their outstretched limbs and slip directly into the Aegean Sea. Speedboats come and go, dropping off guests and friends of friends. It’s a pulse-slowing alternative to the revved-up party scene in downtown Bodrum, 15 minutes away.

The backstory

Maçakızı’s story begins long before this stretch of the Bodrum Peninsula was dubbed the “Turkish Riviera” and way before it found its place on the jet-set map. Ayla Emiroğlu, known as “Maçakızı” – the Queen of Spades – opened a guesthouse that quickly became Bodrum’s original insider address for artists, writers, and free spirits. Decades later, her son, Sahir Erozan, returned after years abroad and took over. In 2000, he moved the hotel around the bay to a pine-covered hillside in Türkbükü, expanding Maçakızı into its current 74-room retreat that still feels like a word-of-mouth classic. Overseeing it all is longtime general manager Andrew Jacobs — an affable Australian often seen mingling with regulars.

The rooms

Like the rest of the hotel, Maçakızı’s 74 rooms are pared back and unfussy. Hidden between winding stone pathways and plumes of wisteria and bougainvillaea, they favour texture over decoration: cool stone floors, white walls, and furniture in pale wood and white linens and occasional pops of colour – a soft terracotta here, a sea-worn blue there. Each space is slightly different. Some have private jasmine-scented gardens, others open straight onto shaded terraces, and most have views of the Aegean, though it’s the privacy and quiet that stand out more than the scenery. For those travelling in big groups or who simply want more, around the bay is their 10-bedroom villa. A secluded mansion with manicured gardens, chefs and enough room to sleep 22 and host a soiree with 300 of your nearest and dearest.

Food and drink

At Maçakizi, food is a draw, with non-hotel guests regularly booking tables well in advance. Mornings start late with pastries, sharp local cheese, and sun-warmed tomatoes. By early afternoon, the scene shifts across the shaded wooden deck, as guests slip in from the jetty barefoot and still damp from the sea, for long, languid lunches that roll into dusk. At Ayla, the hotel’s open-air fine-dining restaurant, Michelin-starred chef Aret Sahakyan delivers his take on Aegean cooking – charcoal-grilled red mullet, figs with pistachio oil, and lamb shoulder melting into smoky eggplant. Vegetables are a highlight, sourced from the on-site garden or trusted local farms, and served simply: charred, pickled, or glossed in olive oil. Under a canopy of canvas and vines, the more casual – but Michelin-starred – namesake restaurant serves moreish zucchini flowers stuffed with herbed rice, green pea pasta with truffle, and just-seared octopus. Sundays are reserved for manti – delicate lamb dumplings served with garlicky yoghurt and a hint of sumac – a dish that is always a hit with a loyal crowd of regulars.

The neighbourhood

Located on the Bodrum peninsula, Türkbükü is a charming seaside village, just 15 minutes away by car and out of earshot from Bodrum’s bustling centre. There are small boutiques, hole-in-the-wall cafés serving strong Turkish coffee and bakeries offering fresh simit and flaky börek pastries. Down by the waterfront, tavernas are busy grilling the day’s catch over charcoal, while the sheltered, pine-backed beaches offer a perfect spot to swim or set sail.

The service

Attentive and friendly. No one asks for your room number twice. Expect staff with warm attitudes and attention to detail rather than buttoned-up butlers or white-gloved service.

For families

There is no age restriction; Maçakızı can provide cots if requested.

Eco effort

Sustainability is embedded into Maçakızı’s operations, from energy use to sourcing. Solar panels help power the property, while smart tech reduces unnecessary energy consumption. Single-use plastics are being phased out – think bamboo straws and reusable fabric laundry bags – and refillable amenities are becoming the standard. Water-saving fixtures are used throughout. The hotel prioritises local, environmentally conscious suppliers, composts organic waste, and avoids serving endangered seafood. Staff receive regular sustainability training and are encouraged to meet annual targets aimed at reducing the hotel’s overall environmental footprint.

Accessibility

Unfortunately, the hotel is not wheelchair-friendly; stairs must be used to access the rooms, restaurant, and beach.

Anything left to mention?

There is a small spa with a marble hammam. If you’re only staying for a couple of nights, book a treatment in advance. The same goes for the restaurants, in particular Ayla, with only a handful of tables and a steady sweep of non-hotel guests; booking ahead is advisable.