Milos, Greece: the Greek island of the summer
Born of earthquakes, tsunamis and undersea volcanic eruptions over hundreds of thousands of years, Milos was destined to carve out a distinct name for itself. But, up until the mid-2010s, the mineral-rich Greek island was little more than an unassuming summer hideaway for doe-eyed Athenian couples. It was there, in 1820, when a farmer accidentally unearthed the Louvre’s prized Venus de Milo (Aphrodite to the Greeks) in a field. This might explain the subconscious pull this once-untouristy outpost had on young lovers. With more than 70 sand and pebble beaches, considered among the best in the Aegean, to choose from, Milos had a single vacay MO: swim, eat, sleep, repeat.
Today, thanks largely to its Insta-fame of recent years, Milos has evolved into a deeply desirable stop on the Cycladic island-hopping circuit with plenty to see and do. Beyond glorious sand and fine pebble beaches and the now immediately recognisable lunar-like landscape of Sarakiniko, there are sea caves, an uninhabited nearby islet best explored by boat, coastal hiking trails, foodie experiences and fascinating ancient finds.
In turn, Milos has seen a much-needed upgrade in accommodation. A string of whitewashed boutique hotels, with more on the way, stud coastal villages like popular Pollonia and the port town of Adamas. Increased demand has resulted in an expansion of four- and five-star offerings. Family-run guesthouses, self-catering villas and even boat houses converted into short-term rentals, round out the choice of places to stay. Smart chef-owned restaurants and laidback traditional tavernas scattered throughout the island embrace local ingredients and recipes. And, when night falls, cosy, low-lit bars concentrated in Plaka and Adamas serve small-batch craft beers and creative cocktails.
Where to stay in Milos
Accessible via high-speed catamaran or a direct flight from Athens, Milos’ accommodation options range from welcoming guesthouses and elegant boutique hotels to secluded villas and self-catering suites. For more recommendations, check out our expert guide to the best hotels in Milos.
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Domes White Coast Milos
Situated in the island’s northeast, adults-only honeymooner magnet Domes White Coast Milos takes its design cues from the Cyclades’ characteristic linear lines and whitewashed facades. Architect Giorgos Tsolakis has fashioned 30 roomy sea-view suites, each featuring an intimate terrace and infinity plunge pool with views of Sarakiniko’s moonscape-reminiscent shores. Book a superior suite with a horizon view for prime sunset captures from a private chill-out pool. At the on-site restaurant Makris, chef Petros Dimas oversees a fine dining experience, earning its standalone Athens sibling a Michelin Star in 2024.
Captain Zeppos
Long a favourite holiday pad for Milos cognoscenti, this family-run guesthouse is renowned for its warm, personalised welcome and seafront location in Pollonia. Exposed stone interiors, timber, and polished cement floors lend a soothing ambience. Choose from four self-catering colour-coded suites adorned with handwoven baskets and wicker lampshades. Parties of up to 11 may opt for the White Villa, which encompasses a sprawling terrace and a hot tub. Aside from an inviting communal pool in the main building, kayaks are available to explore the surrounding coves.
Skinopi Lodge
Nausika Georgiadou fulfilled her greatest labour of love three decades after first stepping foot on Milos. Her eco-credentialled remote retreat encompasses seven villas ensconced within olive trees, lavender and thyme on a sea-facing slope above minute Skinopi village. Inspired by traditional fishermen’s houses, Athens-based architecture firm Kokkinou-Kourkoulas designed the stone-built structures to blend seamlessly into the scrubby landscape. In high summer, a brisk meltemi wind cools spartan indoor-outdoor living spaces. A rejuvenating dip in sulphur springs bubbling below the sea surface steps away from the villas is not to be missed.
Things to do on Milos
Explore Milos’ Wild West with a 4WD safari
Almost all of the island’s wild, tough-to-access west falls under the protection of the EU’s Natura 2000 network. The best way to explore it is by four-wheel-drive on an insightful full-day tour led by a knowledgeable local guide. Visit an inactive volcano and learn about its morphology, spot migratory birds at the Achivadolimni wetlands and trek through rust-red caves at an abandoned manganese mine in Cape Vani before cooling off at sandy, little-trodden Agathia Beach.
Website: milosgreece.gr
Take a self-guided hike through history
You don’t need to be a geology, history or cartography nerd to find the seven Miloterranean Geo Walk routes fascinating. Experts in these fields, together with mining engineers and foresters, created the detailed self-guided online hiking maps on behalf of the Milos Mining Museum, which is worth a visit in itself. Trails of varying lengths lead to the old sulphur mines at Theorychia, a prehistoric obsidian quarry and the Fylakopi archaeological site, among other highlights.
Website: miloterranean.gr
Track down beaches loved by locals
Escape the crowds at Milos’ hotspots and head northeast to peaceful Alogomandra Beach, where locals gather. Arrive early and snare a shady spot on fine sand below a partially collapsed cave. Fewer venture to Gerontas Beach, around 40 minutes drive southwest of Adamas, to which you should factor in a 20-minute walk. The waters here are deep and tranquil, and the sand volcanic. Solitude seekers should rent a four-wheel drive and head west to Triades to cavort across a trio of pristine, often people-free sandy beaches.
Sail to dreamy Sykia and Kleftiko
Milos born-and-bred captain Elias Xydous runs one of the island’s most comprehensive full-day sailing tours aboard his trusty 40-foot sailboat Oneiro. Take in views of traditional Syrmata villages before dropping anchor for a swim and snorkel within the wondrous Sykia sea cave, followed by former pirate hideout Kleftiko’s soaring limestone cliffs. Kalogries is the final swim stop and, in between, Elias’ crew will keep you well-fed with seafood pasta, grilled sundried octopus, local cheese and plenty of ouzo.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: milosoneiro.com
Dive where pirates roamed
While it’s unlikely you’ll stumble onto buried treasure, you can don scuba gear and take a closer look at the vibrant volcanic seabed in Kleftiko or inspect the African shipwreck off Sarakiniko. PADI-certified Dive in Milos caters to both novices and experienced divers. If you’re extremely lucky, you may spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s rarest marine mammals. A small population of this protected species breeds in the waters between Milos, Kimolos and Poliegos islands.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: diveinmilos.gr
Party at a panegyri
Post-pandemic, the people of Milos found good reason to revive the tradition of feast day celebrations, known throughout Greece as panegyria. Mid-July through August 20 is peak panegyri season, when small churches and villages host rousing live music and traditional arm-in-arm dancing, fuelled by hearty food and limitless wine, almost every day. On August 15, Zefyria stages the biggest party of all. Flawless footwork is not a requisite; just go with the flow.
Swim off heavenly Poliegos
East of Milos lies Poliegos, part-time home to a shepherd couple and, arguably, Greece’s most surreal blue-green waters. You’ll want to tap Salty Rides for a customised, all-day excursion aboard a speedy RIB exploring the islet’s seemingly limitless coves and peninsulas. If the weather permits, skipper siblings Manolis and Michael Tourlos might take you to isolated Soufi Bay and a fjord in northern Kimolos. Included are take-home beach towels, sea toys and moreish Milean cheese pies.
Address: Pollonia, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: saltyrides.gr
Sample cave-aged wine
Milos’ geological profile lends itself to a centuries-old European tradition of ageing wine in a cave. Inspired by Greece’s wine-making heritage, which dates back to antiquity, vintner Kostas Mallis successfully introduced wine fermentation in clay amphoras at the family-run Kostantakis winery, housed in a cave in Pollonia. Taking this method a step further, he produces orange and natural wines. Sample these unique white wines, produced with Roditis, Savvatiano and Monemvasia grapes, onsite.
Address: Pollonia, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: kostantakiswinery.com
Spend the day on Kimolos
Hop into your hire car and board the ferry that crisscrosses regularly between Pollonia and Kimolos island, whose minuscule size belies its rare mineral bounty. Photogenic syrmata (fisherman’s houses) line the waterfront in Goupa-Kara, where rocky outposts beckon swimmers to dive in. Even more impressive waters, a dazzling shade of emerald, await at Prassa Beach. In cobblestoned main town Horio, follow alleyways to a fortified settlement and don’t miss Sardis, in Alyki, for home-style fare like eggplant braised in tomato.
Catch a performance at an ancient theatre
While the Aphrodite of Milos may be in the Louvre, the island retains an essential piece of its ancient past in a painstakingly preserved marble amphitheatre. Located on a hill above a bay near Tripiti, the monument is thought to date to the Hellenistic period but was remodelled during the Roman era. Reminiscent of the ancient Greek theatre in Turkey’s Ephesus, it hosts occasional theatre and music performances for an audience of up to 700.
Address: Tripiti, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: odysseus.culture.gr
Cruise the coast at your own speed
Milos has around 78 beaches, yet less than half are accessible by land. Boat rental is a rarity in the windswept Cyclades, so take advantage of the opportunity to beach-hop at your leisure. Hire a 30-horsepower motorboat from Blue Mile Boat Rentals, for which a boating licence isn’t required. Pack a picnic lunch, protective clothing and suncream and seek out secret swimming spots like Gerakas, where the sea is an eye-watering shade of cyan.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: bluemile.gr
Best restaurants on Milos
Okto
Chef Nikos Chatzipantelidis and pastry chef Jisun Sung, both of whom have earned their stripes at Michelin-starred restaurants, have proved a winning combination. As co-restaurateurs at Okto, the pair have wowed even the most exacting foodies with contemporary Mediterranean comfort cuisine and delectable desserts. Open for breakfast through dinner, the restaurant’s pared-down look shouldn’t fool you. Highlights include shrimp tartar with candied ginger, cucumber and lime and octopus with bacon powder, fava purée, cherry tomatoes and onion pickles. Make sure to book.
Address: Trypiti 848 00, Greece
Website: restaurant-okto.gr
Nama
Pollonia has no shortage of good dining spots. At Nama, apple-green and white wooden tables and chairs are set on the village beach with views of bobbing fishing boats, so prepare to dig your bare feet into the sand while perusing the menu. Classic Greek reigns supreme here, with a few modern takes thrown in for good measure. Choose from pitarakia (local cheese-filled pies), cumin- and garlic-laced soutzoukakia (meatballs) in a tomato sauce or grilled swordfish fillet marinated in citrus fruit.
Address: Pollonia, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: instagram.com
Kyra
From the people behind ever-popular Yialos in Pollonia, this chic all-day, open-air spot opened in Plaka in 2024. Named in honour of a 14th-century BCE clay female figurine exhibited in the neighbouring Archaeological Museum of Milos, Kyra serves updated Greek and Mediterranean fare. Breakfast options include wild green pie with feta. Roasted beetroot with blue cheese and slow-roasted lamb with rosemary and garlic count among lunch and dinner highlights. Stay on for a signature white rum honey and basil cocktail and live music.
Address: Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: kyra-milos.gr
Mezze
Mezze, which opened in Triovasalos in 2024, has quickly become a local favourite. This lively, casual eatery serves various Cycladic meze, such as chickpea fritters from Sifnos, yellow split pea dip (fava) and fried calamari. Pair these with dakos salad, a combination of tomato, caper and xynomizithra cheese atop a rye rusk. For your main, ask chef Vasilis Koutsioumpis if he has taken delivery of grouper or amberjack from a local fisherman that morning and allow him to work his magic.
Address: Triovasalos, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: mezzemilos.gr
Best bars on Milos
Verina
After years of living in Athens and spending summers in his native Milos, Stelios Mathioudakis found the perfect location to open a bar in the island’s picturesque hilltop capital of Plaka. He named it Verina, which translates as twisted nautical knot. Low-lit and atmospheric, the bar is decked out with timber rafters, fishing net light fixtures and a seafarer’s portrait. Order the Sailor’s Punch, a mix of aged rum, pineapple, passionfruit, falernum liqueur, ginger and aromatic bitters and catch the sunset from neighbouring Panagia Korfiatissia church’s courtyard. And don’t sleep on the home-style snacks.
Address: Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: instagram.com
Utopia
Seats at this Plaka bar, which boasts a spacious alfresco terrace looking out onto the Aegean, are highly sought-after, particularly when the sun starts to go down and casts a burnt sienna glow on the water. Jazz, RnB and Greek ballads are the music mainstays, while the crowd is a mix of families, couples and parties of friends. There’s a fine selection of premium spirits, fine Greek wines, cocktails and mocktails like Vir-Gin Fizz, an amalgam of zero-alcohol gin, redcurrant syrup and soda water, plus local cheese platters.
Address: Utopia, Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: facebook.com
Mostra
Couples of all ages gravitate to this super mellow watering hole for its roomy, elevated seafront terrace, which offers front-row seats to yachts jostling for space in Adamas’ busy port, their lights twinkling in the night. The soundtrack at Mostra, which is part of Hotel Adamas, is mostly lounge music with soft, melodic and rhythmic vibes. Cocktails are of the classic kind, so you can expect the full gamut, from Negroni and Old Fashioned to Cosmopolitan and Aperol Spritz.
Address: Mostra, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: instagram.com
Syrma Beer Shop
Who knew that Milos was quietly brewing its own beer, including a golden ale flavoured with local thyme honey and a pale ale whose label pays tribute to the Venus de Milo? In Triovasalos, the Syrma Beer Shop tempts with small-batch craft brews from throughout Greece along with their local tipple. Perch yourself on a stool inside this slick taproom, or sit outside and watch the world go by as you sip. On your way out, grab a t-shirt for the memories.
Address: Triovasalos, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: syrmabeer.gr
Mosaic
Make yourself comfortable on the giant woven cushions gracing this friendly all-day cafe bar’s contemporary Bedouin-styled rooftop for a morning espresso freddo beneath bright blue skies. Alternatively, scale the steps of the stone-built, whitewashed building in Plaka for sunset with a refreshing mojito in hand. Be sure to arrive early, as space is at a premium. Open from 10 a.m. to late, Mosaic also serves açaí bowls, croque madame and other breakfast treats, as well as delicious pizza for lunch.
Address: Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: mosaicmilos.gr
Akri
Akri, which means edge in Greek, certainly lives up to its name. Alexandros Desbordes converted his grandmother’s traditional home in a quiet corner above Adamas’ port into a classic bar in 1995. Jazz, lounge and ethnic beats dominate the three stone-paved outdoor spaces, where patrons can watch ferries silently come and go. Around 10pm, the DJ turns up the volume indoors and switches to disco, funk and pop. Akri’s namesake cocktail blends mastiha liqueur, gin, lime, grapefruit soda and cardamom bitters.
Address: Akri, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: facebook.com