Mount Gahinga Lodge

Why book?

A mountainview terrace, gourmet meals from local ingredients, Batwa community heritage, and a chance to track this location’s only habituated gorilla group make Mount Gahinga truly one of a kind.

Set the scene

Tucked away in the foothills of the forested Virunga volcanoes in southwest Uganda’s Kisoro district, on the border with Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, Mount Gahinga Lodge has an extraordinary location on the edge of Uganda’s smallest national park. Connected to the lodge by a direct private footpath, Mgahinga National Park is home to the Nyakagezi gorilla family, the only gorilla group in this park, and rare golden monkeys – both prime reasons for visiting this area. It’s prime hiking territory for volcano climbs with views to cherish.

Mount Gahinga is a compact, intimate lodge overlooked by the Virungas. From the terrace, birdsong is the soundtrack to your morning coffee or afternoon cocktail as you watch the sunbirds sip from the birdbath or chat to the friendly, knowledgeable staff about this region. The gardens are particularly beautiful: most recently, in-house botanist Celine Ishimwe has been focused on reintroducing Indigenous plants to Mount Gahinga Lodge, with plans for a medicinal, herb, and vegetable garden.

No matter the weather – and it can get chilly in this corner of Uganda – the lodge has plenty of cosy nooks, from the lounge and its central fireplace, the sun room, or the hand-crafted ‘bandas’ (rooms), made in what’s become the signature Volcanoes style using locally sourced natural products like wood and bamboo.

The backstory

The first lodge built by Volcanoes’ founder, Praveen Moman, Mount Gahinga Lodge began life as more of a ‘camp’ before opening as a lodge in 2002. Moman grew up in 1960s Uganda and would go walking in the Virungas with his nature-loving father, but left the country in 1972, along with thousands of other Uganda Asians, following dictator Idi Amin’s 1972 expulsion order. In the ‘90s, he returned to his homeland. It was a pivotal moment; the aftermath of the Rwandan genocide, strong memories of his youth, realising the threats facing the Great Apes of the Albertine Rift, and the impact of conservation on the displaced Batwa community, all inspired him to set up Volcanoes Safaris.

Like all Volcanoes’ lodges, Mount Gahinga puts its money where its mouth is when it comes to community engagement, from employing only regional staff to initiatives under the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust (VSPT). Here, it’s particularly committed to preserving and sharing the culture of the Batwa, the oldest inhabitants of the Central African rainforest, displaced during conservation efforts in the 1990s, and subsequently marginalised. Projects include the creation of Batwa village, a short walk from the lodge, which guests can visit in a culturally sensitive way, an on-site heritage tour of Batwa traditions, and a vocational centre selling crafts and textiles. Plans are in place for a community culture and education centre.

The rooms

Traditional designs and local materials inspire the ‘bandas’ (rooms) at Mount Gahinga Lodge, each one hand-built by teams of tradespeople and fundi (artisans), paying homage to the architectural styles of the Bufimbira people, a Bantu ethnic group from Kisoro District. Surrounded by stone walls and under a papyrus roof are the pops of luxury that embody this group’s lodges: spacious bathrooms, private verandas, welcoming lounges with stone fireplaces, books you wish you had more time to read, local artworks, and quality drinks and snacks. All rooms have a personal butler, but it feels more equitable than at many high-end properties.

The bedrooms (two deluxe and six standard rooms), which face the Virungas, are both stylish and cosy; particularly welcome on cooler nights in a region that’s not always ‘tropical.’ From bold monochrome Congolese kuba cloth, elaborately handwoven from the strands of raffia palm leaves, comforting woollen bedspreads, and ecru-coloured, calico cotton curtains, the atmosphere is soft yet infused with local colour and tradition. Bathrooms are open-plan and spacious with organic Healing Earth toiletries and African-print dressing robes. Bedrooms also feature a fireplace, adding to the already warm welcome.

Food and drink

Under the culinary care of head chef Alfred Tumushime, you’ll enjoy an incredible selection of dishes – local and international – that use locally grown (in Uganda) ingredients with vegetables, salads and herbs grown on-site, and avocados and guavas straight off the trees in the gardens. The region’s volcanic soil makes it excellent for farming, and even the humble white potato, known as ‘Irish’ to differentiate from sweet potatoes, is particularly flavoursome.

Favourites at Mount Gahinga Lodge include the traditional Ugandan ‘chicken luwombo’, a slow-cooked whole chicken steamed in banana leaves that’s traditionally served at an engagement ceremony. Also popular is the now-famous Ugandan ‘Rolex’ wrap, a chapati rolled with an omelette filled with spices, herbs, and vegetables. Guests can also take cooking classes with the chefs at Mount Gahinga Lodge and learn how to prepare classic East African dishes, while also gaining insight into Ugandan family life and culture.

If you’re partial to a BBQ, the on-site heritage tour at the Gahinga Batwa Village is an excellent experience (you can also take the tour without the meal). After learning about Batwa traditions, medicines and cultures, guests can have a BBQ meal with village members. Roasted beef, grilled chicken, sweet corn-on-the-cob, ‘Irish’ potatoes in groundnut sauce are some of the dishes you might taste, cooked over a charcoal stove known as a ‘sigiri, with roasted sweet banana and pumpkin ice cream to close it out.

Pre- and post-dinner (or anytime), sitting around the fireplace in the open-plan lounge (which includes the dining area) is always a treat. Surrounded by Congolese masks, statues and ‘mukeka’ (straw) wall hangings, sip a local gin and tonic, a hot mug of mint tea, or a bespoke cocktail.

The spa

For tired post-hike legs or just to relax, the lodge has its own Gushimisha Spa, set in a separate building in the grounds. Try the Rungu massage, based on a traditional African method using a wooden baton to stimulate blood circulation and reduce muscle tension, or opt for deep tissue and Swedish massages or an aromatherapy facial. Guests receive complimentary massages as part of their stay; please book ahead during busy times. There’s a sauna too, perfect for aching muscles.

The location

It takes about 45 minutes to reach Mount Gahinga Lodge from Kisoro airport, nine miles/15 kilometres away, and a one-flight from Entebbe International Airport. If coming from Queen Elizabeth National Park, it takes between three and four hours, and if road-tripping from Lake Mburo, around five to seven hours.

As well as the gorillas and golden monkeys of Mgahinga National Park, which is just a few hundred metres away with a direct route from the lodge to the park entrance, Mount Gahinga Lodge is also a good base for day hikes to the dormant volcanoes; Mount Muhabura (or Muhavura), the highest peak, and Sabinyo, are the most challenging, while the shortest climb is Gahinga (3,474 metres) which typically takes about six hours, with a crater swamp at the summit. There’s a less challenging but rewarding hike nearby to the Kisozi caldera.

The service

Volcanoes’ hospitality is based on the Kinyarwanda (Bantu) term ‘gushimisha’, which loosely translates to warm and welcoming. This is evident across the property, from the front-of-house to the spa, to the chefs, all of whom are keen to share their culture and local knowledge. As founder Moman says, “We should be learning from them and they from us.”

For families

Families are welcome at the lodge, and staff can add extra beds on request; of course, do factor in the terrain and any vaccine and medical requirements. Childcare can be arranged if needed.

There are plenty of activities for families in this area, but remember the age restriction for golden monkey tracking is 12 years, and for gorillas, it’s 15 years. Other options include the three volcanoes to climb, a caldera walk, spectacular countryside and farmland walks, the immersive Batwa Heritage Tour.

Eco effort

Solar panels are installed for hot water, with back-up generators in place as well. Rainwater is also collected, and only when the natural water supply runs out is water brought in externally. The lodge’s Healing Earth toiletries are wrapped in recycled stone paper, and they use dispensers for shower products. With food and drink, you’ll find filtered water in glass bottles, while ingredients are locally sourced, and much of it from the lodge’s own garden.

Accessibility

It’s a challenging terrain, but lodge staff will do their best to look after guests with whatever needs they have, including hands-on assistance. It’s best to check before booking to see if what’s provided is appropriate and helpful.

Anything left to mention?

For a greater understanding of the local Batwa culture and community, who lived in the forests until conservation efforts displaced them, it’s worth visiting the permanent village set up by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust (VSPT) with a staff member. It’s a lovely walk through farmlands with striking views of the Virungas, and a way to appreciate that conservation efforts can come with challenges, but that there are solutions.