We've always got one eye on any new restaurants opening on the London food scene. Our editors are on the ball for the latest openings in each London neighbourhood, from Covent Garden restaurants to Shoreditch hotspots. For the ultimate list of places to eat in the city, check out our definitive guide to London's best restaurants. These are the places that we consider the crème de la crème, from generations-old spots that have stood the test of time and Michelin-starred dining rooms that get better each year to mind-blowing new openings from this list that we decided deserved a spot on the ultimate round-up of the best restaurants in London.
For new restaurants opening in London recently, we've seen follow-ups from some of the city's biggest-name chefs. In the first half of 2025, we've seen a handful of restaurant openings that have stopped us in our tracks: see-and-be-seen One Club Row; Claude Bosi's second Josephine outpost, this time in Marylebone; Shoreditch's coolest new restaurant, One Club Row, the vibiest new waterside hangout Canal and London's OG Thai restaurant Singburi.
How we choose the tastiest new restaurant openings in London
The best new restaurants in London are the most exciting places to eat that have just opened in the capital city. Ranging from small affairs with daily changing menus from up-and-coming chefs to Michelin-starred spots with fresh new menus, these are London's new restaurants we've got our eye on right now.
Every restaurant on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has eaten at that restaurant. When choosing new restaurants, our editors consider both high-end and affordable eateries that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We’re always looking for stand-out dishes, a great location, warm service, and serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new restaurants open in London.
Best new London restaurants in December 2025
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Luso, Fitzrovia
A peckish tear was shed by many a Londoner when Nuno Mendes' Lisboeta closed its doors this summer. Alas, all was not lost. MJMK Restaurants jumped at the chance to capitalise on the prime Charlotte Street location, transforming the site into Luso – a brand-new concept with classic flavours. Piri piri spices scent the 90-cover restaurant as we seek shelter from the chilly winter’s evening, dashing waiters pouring crimson wines by flickering candlelight. Chefs dance around flames in the open kitchen to the back of the tiled ground floor, lobsters and hefty hunks of steak kissed by fire and slid onto plates for the team to whisk away. We settle into a cosy top-floor spot, watching the festive chaos at the intersection of Charlotte and Rathbone Streets through expansive sash windows. Our selection of starters is charcuterie-esque, with thick requeijão (a ricotta-like cream cheese) spread on chunks of warm sourdough between slivers of marbled Ibérico Ham. British wagyu croquettes follow, a crunchy breaded coating giving way to a salty, creamy filling that works despite our initial reservations. Portuguese chef and Mugaritz alumnus Leandro (Leo) Carreira’s menu is a celebration of the Iberian Atlantic coastline, and the Frango piri piri takes pride of place above all the large plates. Succulent morsels of breast, thigh and legs rest in a comforting, oily sauce, and we divvy up portions alongside grilled red peppers and a skillet of baked butter rice so good I considered requesting Tupperware to transport the crispy scraps home once defeated. I’m the first to admit to small plates fatigue at times; however, when I return, I’ll be returning with reinforcements and a subsequent excuse to scoff everything there was no room for on my first visit. Connor Sturges
Address: 30 Charlotte Street, London W1T 2NG
Website: luso.restaurant
Lilibet's, Mayfair
London’s dining scene can be split into two categories – mouth-watering food or eye-wateringly beautiful decor. Rarely do the two ever meet. Which is why Lilibet’s Mayfair, which manages to pull both off with equal flair, is currently the talk of the town. Taking its name from HRH Elizabeth II, who was born at the Bruton Street address, the restaurant is the creation of Ross Shonhan (Nobu, Zuma, Bone Daddies), who, peculiarly, wanted to imagine what life would have been like for Lilibet had she never become queen. The whimsical interiors, by Russell Sage Studios (Fife Arms, Sloane Club) are indeed princess-worthy, with glamorous ruby-red velvet chairs, fringed lamps and a dizzying array of chintz, silk, heirloom-worthy objects and art for eyes to feast on. The grandeur is furthered by the plentiful staff flurrying about in sharp chocolate suits adorned with vintage brooches, wheeling old-fashioned wooden trolleys with soup tureens and carrying teapots on silver trays.
Just to witness it all with average food would be enough, but nay, the actual feast is equally as joyful. The menu is not the traditional roast or scones that you might expect, but an unexpected, hold-onto-your-hat, seafood adventure. Anchovies are served on eclairs, oysters come dressed, fire roasted and fried, while an ‘unsung heroes’ section offers up sea urchin, garfish and sea cucumber. Be sure to order the curiously named ‘Lilibet’s triptych,’ which translates to fish served three ways – raw, grilled and then lastly as a punchy soup. And don’t scrimp on the vegetable sides – I haven’t stopped talking about the sprouting broccolini and the mashed potato, served on a knockout shellfish bisque sauce and topped with lobster. For pudding, there’s a rogue Prego steak sandwich option (a post-seafood dessert alternative borrowed from Portugal), as well as decadent portions of chocolate mousse and choux à la creme, plopped into pretty art deco dessert bowls. The cocktails are equally worthy of a visit in their own right – pull up a pink chair at the marble bar, order a beautifully balanced tomatini and feel the royal fantasy. Lauren Burvill
Address: 17 Bruton St, London W1J 6QB
Website: lilibetsrestaurant.com
Field Notes, London Fields
It can be hard to make an impact on a dining scene that ebbs and flows as much as London's. Field Notes, near London Fields, is one of the places quietly trying to make its mark, not with splashy marketing or the latest food trends, but with its honest approach to sustainable eating and drinking. And helmed by Ivan Tisdall-Downes, formerly of Green Michelin-starred Native, this commitment to a more ethical way of dining makes perfect sense. On a wash-out evening in November, I'm enticed by the warm, glowy vibe of this cosy, 24-ish cover restaurant. I’m seated at the counter (my preferred seat in any restaurant), giving me a prime view of Ivan and the team at work. The menu is short and deeply considered, with an array of snacks and just three plates for both starters and mains, perfect for an indecisive diner like me. We start with plump Porthilly oysters and a bite of fish toast, then move on to a pristine scallop crudo and wild mushrooms, with a confit egg yolk perfect for dipping my focaccia into. An uncomplicated skin-contact Spanish wine makes a lovely accompaniment as we dance between land and sea, from mushrooms to trout, venison and more. One of Chef Ivan’s signatures, we couldn’t leave without trying “the marrowmel” – half a shin bone filled with the richest of caramel and made from, you guessed it, bone marrow. Whether choosing to dine greener, or simply after your new cosy date-night spot, Field Notes is definitely worth taking note of. Lucy Bruton
Address: Monohaus, Studio 3 •, Helmsley St, London E8 3FW
Website: fieldnotes.uk
Best new London restaurants in November 2025
Tobi Masa, Mayfair
London’s most notable new hotel this year, The Chancery Rosewood, has also been responsible for some equally impressive new additions to the city’s dining scene. First, there was glossy Serra, serving up Southern Mediterranean on the ground floor. Then the opening of cult New-York it-restaurant Carbone – not part of the hotel, but in the same complex – and now another famed New York name, Tobi Masa, has moved into the ex-American embassy address.
The original, Masa, is a midtown institution, having introduced a new standard for omakase to the US back in 2004, and going on to earn three Michelin stars. At Tobi Masa – Tobi means ‘to fly’ – the sizable menu includes some of the New York signatures, as well as the kind of food Chef Masa Takayama himself likes to eat himself. This ranges from the decadent – foie gras shiso – to laidback comforts – grilled soy chicken wings. And while there is an omakase counter within the expansive oak and bronze space, it also includes other open stations where you can watch meats sizzling on an open charcoal grill, seafood being plated, a sake bar, as well as a glowing cocktail bar where the classics are given a Japanese twist. My favourite was the Shizuku martini, a vigorous glass of vodka, gin and sake, brought to the table then theatrically topped with drops of sesame, scallion and chilli oil.
Kick things off with the stellar Peking duck tacos – a New York favourite for a reason. The duck is so succulent, we doubled down and ordered the duck fried rice as well. The surprise of the night was the grilled oysters, which arrived at the table sexily sizzling away and full of beautiful smoky flavour. For some fresh greenery, the petite pot of cucumber avocado taki salad is zesty on the tongue and the wallet – £18 in case you’d forgotten you were in Mayfair. Likewise, there’s all manner of caviar, truffle and wagyu creations. The sushi, as is tradition in Japan, is served at the end, with the Tuna toro roll, a large seaweed wrapped roll plumped with chopped fatty tuna topped with caviar, the celebrated signature. If you’re a purest, though, you're best to select from the long list of nigiri and sashimi, which also includes Toro tuna, as well as Botan ebi (sweet shrimp) and Petrossian trout roe. Lauren Burvill
Address: 30 Grosvenor Sq, London W1K 6AN
Website: rosewoodhotels.com
Motorino, Fitzrovia
Launching a restaurant with hype around it is all well and good, but creating something that makes people want to return time after time is the real challenge. Motorino, from ex-Lita chef Luke Ahearne and chef-owner of Town Stevie Parle, is certainly shooting its shot – a bold, sultry and surprisingly large space that promises “modern London-Italian” cooking, foodies across the city are already starting to shout about the fresh ingredients and first-class service.
The menu is, admittedly, a little overwhelming; diners can choose from snacks, starters, primi, mains and sides (plus, of course, desserts, cocktails and wines). We skipped the snacks in favour of some starter plates: a fresh Bluefin tuna carpaccio and grilled sardines sitting on pretty disks of red, yellow and green tomatoes. The latter was a favourite – fresh, salty and with a tangy vinegar dressing – but it was the primi plate, Gigli al Gin with fennel sausage, tomato & Ford's gin, that really wowed me. Thinking back, I wish we’d ordered two – the sausage was crisped to perfection, the pasta a perfect bite and the sauce full of flavour – but we didn’t want to miss the peposa: slow-cooked beef cheek with peppercorns and polenta, inspired by a traditional Tuscan stew.
The hedonistic, low-lit decor – all pine wood and green furnishings – and openness of the wait staff make it easy to hole up in here for hours, meaning you will undoubtedly find yourself ordering dessert. I’m a tiramisu aficionado, but I’d actually recommend the lemon meringue here – the hint of fennel added a new depth of flavour and it was easy to stomach, even after the many courses on the menu. I’d come here again for date night, or on a weekend with a group of friends to order endless plates of pasta and indulge in cocktails and gossip. Abigail Malbon
Address: 1 Pearson Square, London W1T 3BF
Website: motorino.london
Bonheur by Matt Abé, Mayfair
Everything glides at Bonheur by Matt Abé, the newly opened, luxuriously poised Mayfair restaurant from Gordon Ramsay’s protégé – and investment – Matt Abé. Impeccably trained staff seem to appear before you’ve realised you need them; Russell Sage’s interior flows with softly curving banquettes and globe lighting, while plates from the five or seven-course tasting menus materialise seamlessly throughout the evening.
Set at 43 Upper Brook Street, the address carries its own weight of history. This was once home to Le Gavroche, the first UK restaurant to earn three Michelin stars, where Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing and Ramsay himself learned their craft. These are, undeniably, big shoes to fill.
Abé honours that legacy with a mostly French menu, laced with nods to his Australian roots and a devotion to seasonal British produce. A delicate riff on Quiche Lorraine arrives as buttery pastry filled with Gruyère-coated leeks and topped with morsels of smoked pork belly, while a heady Vin Jaune sauce is poured tableside. It’s decadently elevated, yet retains a sense of warmth and approachability.
A standout plate sees fallow deer from Aynhoe Park, meltingly tender, offset by a tart blackberry accompaniment. Earlier, a procession of canapés showcases Abé’s artistry, while a dessert of ‘Toasted Grains’ combines a caramelised structure studded with nuts and drenched in a Macallan sauce you could sip by the mugful.
Expect a well-heeled crowd, impeccable service and a dining experience that feels both polished and personal. It’s a graceful continuation of Mayfair’s most storied dining address.
Address: 43 Upper Brook St, London W1K 7QR
Website: bonheurbymattabe.com
The Hart, Marylebone
When I first pull up to the corner of Chiltern and Blandford Street on a Thursday evening, the taxi has to park a few feet away from The Hart, there are so many people outside. Really, I wouldn’t have expected anything less from a Public House opening in Marylebone. The bite-sized group with a big west London presence was founded by pals and hospitality stalwarts James Gummer, Phil Winser and Olivier van Themsche – and some of their sister pubs, like Notting Hill’s The Pelican and The Fat Badger, are my firm go-tos for pre- or post-dinner. Downstairs, The Hart is buzzing but intimate: pubgoers shake raindrops from their umbrellas in the doorway before making a beeline for the booths, stools, and bar area, where people mosey with the comfort of being in their own living room. But as we’re here for supper, we follow the maitre d’ up a narrow staircase, past a lively open kitchen, until we’re in a rabbit hole of a dining room. It’s all dark woods, low-lit by lamps and flickering candles, partition screens between tucked-away banquettes, gas fireplaces, and even stained-glass windows. Waiters flit to and fro with enviable plates of crab cakes (I can testify, a must), leek tart and fried mushrooms, as we take a seat at a corner table next to a pair who are already gushing over their starters.
In some ways, The Hart feels as if it’s been here forever – in the same way that the people feel like they’ve been coming here for years. There's a cosy atmosphere, creaky floors, and the nation’s most classic bar snacks (think pork scratchings) served alongside beers like Allsopp’s and Portobello Pilsner. The restaurant’s menu features seriously old-school dishes like kedgeree, bubble and squeak, and ‘raw beef and crisps’, which is some kind of wonderful.
While you’ll be rightfully tempted to go straight for a soup – particularly if you’re also here on a cold autumn night – don’t underestimate the salads: the apple and Lincolnshire poacher medley is the kind of thing I could eat every day and never get sick of. The whole menu also makes use of local produce, with many of the ingredients being sourced from a Public House-owned garden in Oxfordshire’s Bruen Farms. Lastly, it won’t take more than a glass of house red to convince you to order the banoffee pie, which feels like a delightfully nostalgic treat – and is worth the trip back for. Tamara Southward
Address: 56 Blandford Street Marylebone, W1U 7JA
Website: thehartw1.com
Best new London restaurants in October 2025
Il Bambini Club London, Shoreditch
It’s a drizzly autumn evening and the wool coats are making their first appearance since March – but we’ve reason to feel smug. I’ve made a rare journey from my southern suburbs into the depths of Shoreditch in aid of Il Bambini Club, The Hoxton’s glittering new Italian trattoria. An open-plan restaurant within a hotel’s ground-floor lobby sounds like the stuff of nightmares, but not for a brand that’s known for the creative, outgoing guests it attracts – the bar here has long been one of the neighbourhood’s buzziest hotspots. Designers Virginie Friedmann and Delphine Verace have done wonders transforming the airy space into a cosy hideout, having previously worked on an array of glitzy projects, including Nice’s Hotel La Pérouse. Bold stripes and intricate patterns interject green and terracotta furnishings throughout the main dining area and semi-private dining spaces, complemented by textured fabrics and plush banquettes that curve to create intimate corners perfect for date nights or reunions with close friends. We soon learn that sharing is the name of the game, as we face indecision while scanning the small plates, hefty mains, and sides on offer. Pillowy focaccia is dipped in tart olive oil as the signature mushroom arancini arrives, crispy shells giving way to velvety centres – a scarce moment of silence ensues as my companion develops eyes for nothing but the yellowfin tuna tartare with avocado. Pasta or pizza? Panic ensues, and we opt for one of each: plump prosciutto tortellini in an indulgent parmesan cream, alongside a diavola pizza generously embellished with glistening tears of burrata. While one slice of the pizza, which arrives on an elevated stand to claim pride of place (Insta-foodies, take note), is enough to commit me to a return visit, it’s the meatballs that pepper post-supper conversation once we leave. Two gargantuan balls sit in a shallow layer of sweet tomato sauce, accompanied by a dollop of whipped ricotta and two slivers of garlic bread, which, in itself, is so pleasantly pungent that it’ll draw back garlic devotees time and time again. We sink into our booth in defeat before sweet cocktails cleanse our palate. Hindsight’s a wonderful thing, but we commit to trusting our foresight on our return as we totter into the night, subtle strokes of chocolate sauce on the edges of our lips after filling our second stomachs with dipped ‘Bombini di Bambini’ doughnuts. Connor Sturges
Address: Il Bambini Club London, 81 Great Eastern Street, London EC2A 3HU
Website: bambini-restaurant.com
Alta, Kingly Court
Kingly Court is the kind of place that reminds me of the festive season just by default, and visiting its newest – and coolest – restaurant, Alta, in October sparked that cosy nostalgia for the first time this year. Despite being surrounded by easy-breezy eateries that don’t require a booking, Alta is rewriting the Kingly Court narrative. This is a place to look forward to in advance. It’s inconspicuous from the street, and inside is a dimly lit, clay-coloured interior with simple wooden tables and mellow yellow lighting. The open kitchen and grid-like wall of wines replace the need for striking design installations, and the menu is inspired by the Spanish Basque Country. I’m sold. We start with oysters and cava while we pore over the menu, struggling to narrow down our choices to the right amount for only two people. The sardine empanada is the Instagram frontman because of its characterful visuals, but when it arrives, I realise it’s also a flavoursome work of art. We order the courgettes and squid, which almost resemble pasta, and the mullet (which is boned before it arrives). Cocktails are refreshingly inventive, and the wine list comes in a leather book, but I don’t even need to look. The staff here are so clued up on their menus that I trust every recommendation they make. Obviously, we’re full after fishing every last scrap, but in dedication to the cause, we recruit our desert stomachs, and it’s wholly worthwhile. Glossy chocolate mousse sits on a pool of olive oil and comes topped with a blow-torch-burnished marshmallow. It's essentially the poshest s’more I’ve ever had in my life, and needless to say, I’m still thinking about it now. Sarah Leigh Bannerman
Address: Alta, 9 Kingly Court, Soho, London
Website: alta-restaurant.com
Cicoria by Angela Hartnett, Covent Garden
When Angela Hartnett commits to a new project, there’s always going to be hype around it. When that project is housed inside the Royal Opera House, you can bet seats will be filling up from day one. That’s what happened when we visited the packed-out Cicoria, which opened in late September but is already drawing in a mixed crowd of theatre-goers and foodies. On the fifth floor of the iconic London building, the smart, welcoming spot offers Italian-inspired cuisine that Angela is famous for, including a couple of memorable dishes that are bound to become iconic among London foodies. The menu will keep purists happy – the focaccia was crisp and fluffy, the pasta served with a perfect bite and the meat dishes rich and full of flavour – but I loved digging a little deeper into the small additions that made all the difference; the thinly sliced lardo added onto our ragu at the last minute that added a depth of flavour and mouthfeel to remember, or the salty anchovies plonked on top of the vitello tonato to cut through the richness. And I’d return just for the olives, which were stuffed with sausage, breadcrumbed and lightly fried (one order was not enough). Reliable, classic and satisfying, Cicoria is one for all ages, for families or groups of friends. Those visiting with a theatre ticket will be impressed by the staff’s efficiency; we watched them ensure multiple tables made it to their seats in time. However, if you’re not visiting before a show, it’s best to skip this time and book a 7.45pm table to miss the chaos and slight panic in the air. Instead, pop into the bar with a gorgeous view of the piazza and classic cocktails aplenty. Abigail Malbon
Address: Cicoria by Angela Hartnett, Royal Opera House, Bow Street, London WC2E 9DD
Website: rbo.org.uk
Aram, Strand
I remember first tasting Imad Alarnab’s food back in 2017, when he came to make lunch in my then office following a series of Syrian supper clubs our founder had been helping to organise following the outbreak of war in Alarnab’s home country (the chef was forced to leave his businesses in Damascus, cooking for refugees on his journey throughout Europe before ending up in London). His transcendental hummus has stayed with me ever since. In the intervening years, Alarnab has gone from strength to strength, opening Imad’s Syrian Kitchen in 2020 before relocating to a larger space in 2023. Now he’s launched a breezy new spot in the sunny, high-ceilinged rooms of Somerset House’s south wing, overlooking the River Terrace. “Aram” refers to the ancient Syrian land and its surrounding territories, and for Alarnab, it’s both a statement of return to his homeland and a celebration of the flavours of Syria, Turkey, Cyprus, Jordan, and the wider East Mediterranean. Currently open for breakfast and lunch only, Aram unfolds as a procession of beautiful rooms in shades of pistachio, saffron and dusky rose. First up is the countertop deli, where shelves of carob syrup, roasted nuts, ground coffee and dates join rows of pastries and bowls of salads. Next come two dining rooms lined with banquettes, and then a final space that will host supper clubs, cooking classes, and events, including those for refugee chefs seeking community. When we arrive on a Monday just past noon, it’s already buzzing with well-heeled media types, business lunchers and arty couples likely fresh from an exhibition, and the bowls of shakshuka, falafel and salads piled high with fragrant dill and coriander that sail by have me scanning the menu before we’ve even sat down. There’s a good-value express lunch – two salads (a choice from the likes of curry cauliflower, roasted aubergine and pasta chicken), a protein and a pitta for £18 – but I opt for a warm zaatar croissant stuffed with pomegranate molasses-glazed halloumi, runny fried eggs, quivering tomatoes and a punchy ajvar mayo, washed down with a spiced pomegranate fizz. My pal’s sumac-cured trout with crispy potato rosti also hits the spot, and we end with a delicate pistachio and rose cake that hides a secret bleeding heart of rose jam. I suspect I’ll be back for a few more working lunches – mainly to try the halva brownies and Syrian chai – and will keep watching for Alarnab’s next move.
Address: Somerset House, Strand, Greater London WC2R 1LA
Website: arambyimad.co.uk
Carbone, Mayfair
“We wanted to make somewhere we dreamed of eating at”, co-founder Mario Carbone told Condé Nast Traveller’s digital editor when she was granted early access to his eponymous restaurant. He’s not alone as, well before the doors opened, it was clear most of London dreamt of eating here, too. Carbone NYC has long been synonymous with A-listers and fashionable figures, with mere mortal foodies refreshing their emails in anticipation of securing a coveted reservation. As we escape the September gusts picking up outside and head inside on the opening night, there’s a palpable sense of excitement – and smugness – in the air. Upstairs, diners surround tables draped in crisp tablecloths, the smallest of two bars casting golden light over cerulean and scarlet decor. Descending, I emerge to a buzzy cocktail lounge that flows into a sultry subterranean dining space. While diners on the terrace above people-watch on a corner of Grosvenor Square, we sip Billecart-Salmon and witness a choreographed performance. Service captains – the affectionate term bestowed upon Carbone’s front of house team – strut between banquettes in velvety Zac Posen-designed tuxedos as mid-20th-century hits and a gentle chatter fill the air. A bread basket stacked with three varieties arrives beside rolls of salami Milano – a captain follows, ceremoniously stabbing at a parmesan wheel and crumbling chunks onto side plates. We waste no time diving into servings of the signature spicy rigatoni vodka, cylindrical pasta coated in an indulgent creamy sauce, and gargantuan melt-in-the-mouth meatballs. Discreet stomach rubbing and wine-swirling ensue before the main event lands in the centre of the table, the veal parmesan’s tomato and cheese toppings glowing under the light of the Art Deco table lamp. It’s devoured over the course of half an hour with sides of oily, garlicy potatoes and sautéed mushrooms. Just as we’re ready to admit defeat, showmanship persuades us to indulge one final time as a spread of desserts appears on a shimmering silver platter beside us. A misunderstanding of portion sizes leads to a gluttonous overorder, a stracciatella tiramisu fit for a Parisian patisserie counter gazing up at me as my companion’s Neapolitan cherry flambe plays out beside the table. There’s a party to get to – or at least there was. We reel at the realisation that it’s minutes before midnight, having lost a full four hours to exceptional Italian-American fare in a mesmerising, sweet-scented crimson blur we’d do anything to remain in. Connor Sturges
Address: Carbone, 30 Grosvenor Square, London W1K, UK
Website: carbonelondon.com
ACE Pizza, Victoria Park
ACE Pizza has opened its first standalone spot in Victoria Park (having started in the kitchen at The Pembury Tavern, where their cult slices are still on the menu), and it’s already clear the Hackney-born favourite has grown up without losing its edge. Their “London style” slice blends Neapolitan char with New York foldability, ideal for a one-hand slice, one-hand pint equation.
The menu is broad enough to keep everyone happy (including vegans, with an impressive plant-based selection). We began with giardiniera pickles and fried artichokes (sharp, salty, gone in minutes) and the delicious Hot AF margaritas from their “low and no alcohol” drinks list. Their most popular Honey Pie is a thing of beauty: fior di latte, salami, guindilla chillies, a drizzle of chilli honey; and looks unlike other hot honey pizzas in the city. The vegan Capers on Mare Street refuses any lazy tropes, layering Nocellara olives, capers, plant-based mozzarella from Casadei and chimichurri into a knockout combination. The limited edition Clam Pie, featuring clams, pecorino and lemons is a bright, briny treat.
Inside, it’s an 80s disco diner remembered through bright reds and soft yellows, chestnut panelling and plush booth seating. We chose to sit outside, taking in the very last of the summer sun and letting the neighbourhood drift by.
If you’ve got room after, order the Grown Up Sundae, made up of fior di latte soft serve, olive oil, sea salt, fennel pollen and honey. And then? Walk it all off through Victoria Park, amble towards V&A East, and make a day of it. Preshita Saha
Address: 126 - 128 Lauriston Road, London E9 7LH
Website: thisisacepizza.com
Serra, Mayfair
A confession – one I probably shouldn't admit to as an editor at a travel publication – I've never been much for hotel restaurants. Too often, they're faceless, transient spaces with menus constructed to please as many different types of guests as possible, without ever forming a tangible identity of their own. Of course, I'm always happy to be proven wrong. The Chancery Rosewood – the fanciest hotel opening in London this year, set inside the mammoth old American Embassy – will eventually have eight restaurants and bars, and so I had a good feeling that Serra, the ground-floor restaurant I dined at during my stay in opening week, might be the exception to my rule. Interiors are easy on the eye (hotel restaurant sceptics might say they're inoffensive) – New York-based designers AvroKO added lots of curvy lines, which make the cubic space warm and inviting. Rather than running the gauntlet of cuisines and cooking styles in an attempt to appeal to everyone, the team have chosen Southern Mediterranean dishes to spotlight; solid crowd-pleasing dishes with a definite theme. We started strong with our favourite dish of the night: doughy flatbread with lardo. I really subscribe to my belief that you can tell if a restaurant is going to be worth eating at based on how much attention they pay to their breads, and this passed my test. The rest of the dishes didn't falter: pillowy ricotta gnocchi and fresh slivers of scallop tartare to start, as well as blushing steak and crispy potatoes. These aren't ground-breaking dishes, but they are truly delicious, and sometimes – often – that's all I really want. Sarah James
Address: Serra, 30 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6AN
Website: rosewoodhotels.com
Legado, Shoreditch
Men and women about town have been well aware of Nieves Barragán Mohacho, the Basque-born cook, since her days as executive head chef at tapas joint Barrafina, which earned a Michelin star during her tenure. Her first solo venture, the 2017-opened Sabor – with its long communal counter and blue-and-white tiles – was an instant hit in Mayfair, and was awarded a Michelin star of its own a year after opening. So it tracks that, nearly a decade later, all eyes are on Nieves's second London opening. This time she's set up out East, in buzzy Montacute Yards (right next door to another hot-commodity opening, Singburi). The one-floor restaurant feels vast as I slip through the door one Thursday evening, a few days after opening. Every table is full, and punters are shuffled into the bar that curves around the open kitchen, watching the team – including Nieves – cook. I settle into a corner booth with my sister, who is working on a 3-Sip Serve: tiny tipples designed to be enjoyed while we browse the menu. I order a rhubarb and bonanto cocktail while we make quick work of nailing down which dishes we'd like to share: arroz de cangrejo (crab rice), silky Cantabrian anchovy on a slab of brioche smothered in smoked cheese, and light and crispy monkfish tempura. We follow up with perfectly cooked octopus and one of the hero dishes here, lamb cutlets Milanesa. For pudding, we share saffron ice cream with white chocolate mousse and olive oil, which scratches a salty-sweet part of my brain. Despite just opening, there's an ease and confidence to the way Nieves runs a restaurant – and a menu – leaving you feeling like you're in safe hands from the moment you order that 3-Sip Serve. Sarah James
Address: Legado, Yards, 1C Montacute, London E1 6HU
Website: legadorestaurants.com
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Speedboat Bar at The Electric, Notting Hill
Speedboat Bar has a new sibling in town, a buzzy spot taking up residence on Notting Hill’s vibrant Portobello Road. Following suit from the much-loved Soho spot, with its playful Thai interiors mimicking a classic roadside eatery in the Chinatown district of Bangkok. Bright red plastic stools tucked under shiny metal tables spill onto the street of West London, all occupied on a balmy Tuesday evening. It’s also packed inside, leather booths and bar stool seating scattered with fragrant, fresh sharing dishes served up on mix-match plastic colourful plates, the dupe of those from a street food stall in the Thai capital. The menu is substantial, 25 dishes to be exact, all numbered like a typical Thai menu – and they all sound delicious. We catch a glimpse of the dishes flung from the open kitchen before deciding on five plates to share between two; we recommend one from each section, not skipping on a curry and a noodle dish. We start with the crispy pork served with a spicy red chilli dip named prik nam som and a tangy mango salad with crunchy chicken, the perfect blend of sweet and spice. Noodles vary in size, some thick, soft and slurpy, others thin, crispy and stir-fried. Our favourite was the wide rice noodles with beef coated in a salty soy sauce. Another plate you have to order, which you’ve most likely seen splashed all over your Insta feed, is the beef and holy basil, known as pad kra pao, one of the most popular dishes in Thailand – spicy, saucy mince topped with a crispy-edged runny egg, best soaked up with a serving of rice. Curries include the whole sea bream with makrut lime and the fiery crispy pork in black pepper sauce. Finish with the deep-fried pineapple pie topped with a dollop of purple taro ice cream, with a shot of mango tequila for good measure.
This Thai food really is worth shouting about. Head chef and restaurateur Luke Farrell spent many years living and training in Thailand and has quite literally brought the flavours to London, even growing native Thai herbs and plants required for authentic seasoning. Everything is on the spicy side, keeping as close to traditional as possible. Turn the sun's temperature up 10 degrees or so, throw in some tuk tuk horns, perfumed incense and save on the airfare – this truly feels and tastes like a classic spot on neon-lit Yaowarat Road. Sophie Knight
Address: Speedboat Bar at The Electric, 191 Portobello Road, London W11 2ED
Price: ££
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The Salusbury, Queen's Park
I love a glossy West End opening as much as the next person, but nothing makes my heart flutter like a new neighbourhood restaurant – I love a community's intrigue and investment in a local business opening, the convivial atmosphere of neighbours chatting, and the relaxed attitude of staff who know their clientele inside out. So I was delighted to find out that The Salusbury, a long-standing bar in Queen's Park, a local-to-me corner of northwest London where interesting indie businesses seem to crop up monthly, was getting a revamp. Local lads Gareth Cooper (founder of Broadwick Live, which owns Printworks and Drumsheds), Alex Payne (owner of The Rectory hotel) and Jon Drape are at the helm of the revamp, which has stayed true to the building's history as a beloved local boozer on one side, with a redesigned dining room making up the other half of the ground floor. Natasha Hidvigi Design have brought in earthy burgundy and scallop hues, hazelnut-brown patina banquettes and bistro-style white paper tablecloths that get delightfully mucky – the true sign of a good supper. The menu is overseen by Tarryn Bingle, who previously worked with Payne as head chef at The Rectory as well as with other top chefs, including Sally Abé. The kitchen sends laid-back plates of crisp on the outside, fluffy in the middle parmesan churros, silky crab cacio e pepe and Suffolk lamb with smoked potatoes out to the dining room, while punters in the pub sling back oysters or share plates of pickled sardines. Come for a pint, stay for supper – this is a new opening that already feels lived-in. Sarah James
Address: The Salusbury, 50-52 Salusbury Road, London NW6 6NN
Price: £££
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Duchy, Shoreditch
Duchy may feel familiar to those who frequent Shoreditch, since it was previously Michelin-starred Leroy. Two former alumni – Alex Grant and Simon Shand – have taken over the address to create something that’s just different enough to get people talking. With a menu inspired by the Duchy of Savoy region, there are elements of French and Italian cooking throughout; diners can expect hearty plates like the house diot sausage with a wild garlic aligot (a brighter, more aesthetic cousin of bangers and mash) or Cornish pollock with borlotti beans and lardo, combined with lighter, fresh dishes like the memorable brown crab arancini or anchovies with guincale on a crisp crostini. Dishes come to share, so it’s easy to get carried away and over-order – despite being ‘small plates’, we found them to be surprisingly filling, so proceed with caution. Do, however, leave room for the fresh spaghetti with sage and pecorino; I love to see a simple dish done right, and the texture of this homemade pasta was just perfect with a glass of the restaurant’s impressive wine collection.
It’s worth booking early to try to secure one of the seats near the windows. When we visited on a light summer evening, the breeze drifting through the windows was gentle and welcoming, and it meant we stuck around a little longer to enjoy dessert. If I hadn’t already overindulged, it would have been the selection of cheeses, but it turns out sharing the apricot and hazelnut tart was the ideal end to a memorable evening.
Address: 18 Phipp Street, London EC2A 4NU
Price: ££
Website: duchyrestaurant.com
Shanghai Me, Mayfair
Ever since Shanghai Me first launched in Dubai and Doha, we’ve been drumming our laps in anticipation of this London opening. Its latest iteration, which replaces the longstanding Galvin at Windows at the rooftop of the London Hilton on Park Lane, may not channel the Shanghai 1930s Art Deco aesthetic quite as markedly as its Middle Eastern branches, but who cares when you’ve got resplendent red velvet seating, wraparound window panoramas, and some of the best Pan-Asian cuisine in town.
British-Nigerian chef Izu Ani’s devised concept takes us to China and Japan with a brief layover in Mongolia. Farm-to-table freshness infuses every item, from the crispy calamari starter to the duck dishes, and it does so well. Quack addicts will adore the signature roast duck salad starter with pine nuts and tasty fruit chunks, as well as the magnificent, crispy-skinned roast duck and foie gras dolloped with caviar – a revelatory combo.
The mains were full of deviations that might have purists recoiling, but worked very well: the pancakes and hoisin sauce came with thinly sliced, medium-rare Cantonese-style roast duck instead of the shredded crispy aromatic kind, while the egg fried rice, though unusually short-grained, was pillow-soft and captured that smoky ‘wok hei’ flavour. There was a tender bounce to the Mongolian lamb chops, and the silver cod with miso melted in the mouth, as did the Kowloon shrimp tempura. Everything paired nicely with a warmed-up Dewazakura sake. The desserts maintained standards, especially the Japanese cheesecake with mixed berry compote, vanilla sauce and crème caramel sauce. Our neighbouring table treated themselves to the signature giant fortune cookie, a six-inch pyramid smothered in chocolate and filled with matcha mousse. The message inside might very well have read: “This establishment will please many stomachs for years to come.” And we would concur. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 28th Floor, London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, London, W1K 1BE
Price: ££££
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Best new London restaurants in July 2025
Canal, Maida Hill
Those unable to make it to the Med for the tail end of Euro summer could do worse than legging it to the Westbourne Riviera, aka the strip of Grand Union Canal now harbouring West London’s vibiest new waterside restaurant. A threatening grey sky can’t stop us and a clutch of other optimistic diners from sipping al fresco aperitifs like the olive-oil negroni, created in collaboration with Bar with Shapes for a Name, as we watch canal boats putter along the river against a graffitied backdrop – but as the first fat drops of rain begin to fall, we beat a hasty retreat inside. The top half of the room feels like a Japanese listening bar, with shelves of bottles and speakers lining the back wall, a central oval bar surrounded by high stools drawing solo diners and drinkers. At the other end, the open kitchen spills out into the restaurant, featuring metallic silver tabletops and smooth concrete columns, both sides united by wavy paper lanterns and cherry-coloured wood. Canal is the latest venture from the team behind Crispin and Bistro Freddie – but where the latter is all French-inspired dishes best eaten by candlelight, here everything is light, zingy and fun. The staff – dressed in workers’ denim jackets and waistcoats in covetable cuts – excitedly give us their top picks from a seasonal menu that reads like a spin on summer holiday favourites, alongside a cracking white rioja to drink it all down. Bite-size, pintxos-like focaccia are topped with smoked mussels and confit garlic, channelling moules mariniere in its most elegant form. Slivers of sea bream and prawn crudo come in acid-yellow pools of olive oil, the former dotted with globes of dark cherry, and a sliced Mangalitza sausage with sweet pickled chilli and a brown ketchup is the ultimate start-your-night snack. We at first assume the “table cheeseburger” is a nod to the film The Menu; but it turns out to be a witty inclusion to sate any American tourists staying in the Mason & Fifth hotel upstairs. For mains, there are chunks of monkfish in an oily slick of capers and datterini tomatoes, and cornfed chicken in a creamy puddle of sweetcorn sauce, alongside a summer tomato salad punctuated with a garnish of salty fingers. As the lights dim, we end on a dollop of tiramisu, strawberry sorbet and that continental classic, a generous tot of limoncello. My only regret? That I’m here on a weeknight and can’t make like a true European by carrying the buzz on late into the night. Olivia Squire
Address: Canal, 11b Woodfield Road, Westbourne Park, London W9 2BA
Price: ££
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Gina
It might be a stretch to say that Gina is putting Chingford on the map – this is firmly suburbia, a leafy bit of northeast London that only serious foodies will make the pilgrimage to – but this defiance in the face of the odds is exactly what gives this new neighbourhood restaurant its charm. Wife and husband duo Ravneet Gill and Mattie Taiano have proven their chops on the capital’s food scene; Gill oversaw the sweet offering at the likes of St. John, Zuma and Black Axe Mangal, while Taiano has cooked for The Camberwell Arms, Franks and Som Saa. Gina represents their first swing at nurturing a project all of their own in the locale they call home, sitting snug among the estate agents and corner shops of a nondescript high street at the end of the Overground. Gill has been documenting the travails of launching an independently funded eatery in “the worst year for restaurants ever” on the Club Gina blog, doling out advice on everything from why service charge matters to how to design the perfect loos. I’m already rooting for them as we pull up on a sultry, simmering summer evening and settle under the striped awning outside. Waiters buzz about in natty lilac or chocolate-brown jackets as I sip Gina’s martini, a tiny but lethal version made with olive-oil vodka and named after the restaurant’s muse and namesake, Taiano’s late mother Gina. We start with a plate of golden and plum-coloured slices of beetroot in a gritty, sweet pistachio and fried garlic pesto, alongside roasted Piedmontese peppers topped with pillowy stracciatella and criss-crossed with anchovies; I mop up the aftermath of both with slabs of freshly baked sourdough. The blackboard’s daily specials include aged Sussex beef with green peppercorn sauce and whey-fed pork chop with honey mustard mayonnaise, but we opt for perfectly cooked whole lemon sole dressed with samphire and drenched with brown butter, accompanied by a double-carb load of triple-cooked chips and Gina’s pasta, a classic tomato spaghetti. Where Taiano runs the mains, Gill has put together a pleasingly retro dessert menu that reminds me of my school days, albeit far more refined; riffs on rice pudding and chocolate sponge cake are joined by peach cobbler with clotted cream, one of the highlights of our meal. We make a note to return for Sunday lunch, when sharing dishes include braised lamb shoulder with Greek salad and tzatziki or spit-roasted chicken with aioli. I leave with a full stomach, but more than anything a full heart – and the hope that more brave dreamers follow in Gina’s example to spill away from oversaturated hotspots and instead serve the communities that need them most. Olivia Squire
Address: Gina, 92 Station Road, London E4 7BA
Price: ££
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Osteria Angelina, Spitalfields
While the original Dalston outpost of Angelina remains a showcase for experimental, kaiseki-style menus, sending out 13-course parades of dainty plates of crudo and pasta, its new Shoreditch sister is a scaled-up, more laid-back evolution of the same Japanese-Italian fusion concept. According to founder Joshua Owens-Baigler, this new opening is distinct in its own right, boosted by its location opposite fellow newcomer Noisy Oyster, just off Shoreditch High Street. The menu instructs that “there is no right way to order. There is no dress code. You can use your hands. Make yourself at home”. I take the instruction seriously, attempting to scoop up shallow puddles of ponzu or black sesame sauce with a teaspoon as we work our way through a menu split into pane, insalata, crudo, fritti, pasta and grill. Hokkaido milk bread with kumquat and burnt honey butter is a riff on marmalade on toast that would have Paddington Bear packing his suitcase for Shoreditch. Tuna with house ponzu and wasabi is made even more melting with its olive-oil unctuousness; courgette flowers stuffed with miso ricotta and sprinkled with shichimi are moreish enough that I could have eaten a dozen; and the special raviolo with cured egg yolk and black truffle is a decadent standout among the pastas, already a part of the menu to go big on. The Brixham skate wing from the grill could have benefited from more of the umami sea-urchin butter drizzled on top, but the miso-y, buttery Namayasai greens bring it together. For dessert, the genmaicha purin (Japanese custard pudding) is an elegant, green tea-flavoured crème caramel in disguise. There are extensive grappa and sake lists, as well as creative cocktails like the Shinjuku Albatross, a spiced pineapple and mezcal combo, or the parmesan-inflected Big Cheese. Owens-Baigler tells us that the person at the table next to us has been coming to the Dalston branch every month for the past five years and has now migrated here. I can see why. Olivia Squire
Address: Osteria Angelina, 1 Nicholls Clarke Yard, London E1 6SH
Price: ££
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74 Duke, Mayfair
It’s one of those perfect summer evenings in Mayfair; post-work pub goers spill onto the street clutching pints in the sunshine, friends sit sipping iced lattes with New Bond Street shopping bags strewn around their feet and, on a quiet corner on Duke Street, dapper waiters in black waistcoats and long aprons float in and out of 74 Duke, tending to diners at tables covered in white linen tablecloths. The Parisian brasserie is the latest venture from BVC Hospitality (North Audley Canteen, Supernova); perfectly timed considering the moment French dining has been having in the capital of late. The decor, like the crowd, is polished and refined – all glossy dark wood and muted banquette seating bathed in a soft glow from strategically placed lamps and tea lights. The menu is full of classic French staples with a modern twist. We tuck into light-as-air pomme duchesse dunked in sour cream and chives, white asparagus bathed in a delicate summer truffle cream and the fluffiest, caviar and cecina-filled brioche rolls followed by an expertly-cooked steak covered in a punchy peppercorn sauce. Although not usually one for desserts, I’d recommend leaving space for the brown butter choc chip cookies served with banana caramel ice cream – perfectly gooey and dangerously moreish. Sarah Allard
Address: 74 Duke, 74 Duke Street, London W1K 6TA
Price: £££
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Mareida, Great Portland Street
Chile has long had its work cut out getting noticed ahead of its noisier neighbours Peru, Brazil and Argentina, but the wallflower of London’s South American restaurant scene is finally getting a look-in, thanks to new opening, Mareida, in Fitzrovia. This passion project by Indian-born former financier, Prenay Agarwal, was inspired by time spent in Santiago with his Chilean partner. There’s a Chilean hand in every aspect of the Great Portland Street restaurant, from the calming, dark wood interiors designed by Santiago architect Macarena Aguilar to the wall display of gleaming combarbalita volcanic rocks; even the table salt is sourced from the Atacama Desert. Not that they’re above borrowing from their continental neighbours: dishes like the Palta Reina starter (avocado, salmon and roe on a bed of potato and yellow chilli paste) riff on Peruvian flavours and taste as beautiful as one would expect from a menu devised by Carolina Bazán who was named South America’s top female chef 2019 by judges of the World’s 50 Best. She's put her own presentation and twist to authentic Chilean dishes, such as adding parmesan foam to scallops, or plating the crab cake gratin in a crab shell that resembles an empañada. A subtlety of flavours runs throughout, including in the real empanadas, stuffed with morel and king mushrooms, and the tasty Milcao (potato pancake with sour cream and caviar).
The 100 per cent Chilean wine list features some excellent vinos including the Ventolera 2019 pinot noirs, with its spicy cherry, plum notes and distinctive Pacific Ocean minerality. The pick of the desserts is the delicious Hojarasca, a trifle-esque take on the Chilean classic torta amor, comprising dulce de leche, vanilla, and raspberry. Also impressive was the Chocolate Merken: chocolate cremeux and apricot compote on a pool of tasty coffee sauce sprinkled with flakes of merken, a smoky chilli spice that sums up Chile – and Mareida – in a nutshell: quiet yet zesty. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 160 Great Portland Street, London, W1W 5QA
Price: ££
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Best new London restaurants in June 2025
Singburi, Shoreditch
These days, thanks to the recent glut of whipsmart Thai restaurants – Speedboat, Kolae, Anglothai – London diners are on first-name terms with pad peds and nahm prik paos, squeezing out nam jim jaew sauce like it’s ketchup. But it wasn’t always so. Back in 1999 – a year before The Beach came out – Thai food tended to mean predictable green curries, pad thais and morning glory, soundtracked by the crunch of prawn crackers. So the opening of Singburi on Leytonstone High Road was a major event: run by Tony and Thelma Kularbwong it began life as a fish and chip shop but gradually became one of the best Thai restaurants in the UK. Yes, you could order a pad thai and green curry if you wished – and they’d taste a whole lot better than the one in your local pub – but also rootsy, lesser-known dishes such clams in roasted chilli jam and – a favourite – moo krob, crispy pork belly with Thai basil and garlic. Word got out as food hounds made the pilgrimage there; the simple wooden tables were booked out months in advance and in 2023 this mom-and-pop joint with a BYOB policy was ranked higher than both St John and River Café in the National Restaurant Awards. But last year it closed for a reset, as the couple retired and their son Siri, who had grown up cooking at the original, took over. Now Singburi 2.0 has emerged next to Shoreditch High Street station, with two new partners onboard: Nick Molyviaitas (former head chef at Kiln) and Alex Gkikas (owner of Catalyst café). Like a grassroots indie band that’s been picked up by a major label, it’s an altogether shinier affair, set in glass-fronted modern premises with a custom-made grill next to the traditional clay pots. The old yellow restaurant sign now hangs on an inside wall, and it has a wine list rippling with low-intervention bottles, all available by the glass. Cocktails curated by Athens’ bar The Clumsies are mixed at one end – I’m advised to order a pineapple daiquiri, which tempers the chilli heat – and there’s a slick service team patrolling the space. But the food? It hasn’t changed. These are still authentic family recipes cooked with passion – sit at the counter for ringside action, though be prepared for throat-grabbing blasts of frying chilli – and without too much finesse, presented on pink formica plates. A fiery raw beef larb, with cabbage leaves and cucumber to cool down; watermelon and strawberry salad, perfect for the June heatwave, and chicken thighs marinaded in ginger then seared on the grill. Larger plates followed soon after: a squid pad phet stir fry pepped with red chilli, a tiger prawn curry, the shellfish still on the shell but easily parted, submerged in gravy alongside scoops of cucumber. There’s still no desserts, and BYOB is still possible, despite rumours to the contrary; even better, the menu is still very reasonably priced, with nothing over £19. Singburi is all grown up, but still down to earth. Rick Jordan
Address: Unit 7, Montacute Yards, 185‑186 Shoreditch High St, London E1 6HU
Price: £
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Lupa, Highbury
Never mind Koh Samui or Taormina: the White Lotus effect has finally hit North London, thanks to the well-publicised opening in Highbury Park of a restaurant co-owned by actor Theo James – aka Cameron from the second season of the social satire. Well, up to a point. Fans hoping for a glimpse of James may be disappointed – he’ll mainly be taking a back seat – but the real stars of the show at Lupa (not to be confused with the similarly wolfish Bocca di Lupo, or, indeed, Luca) are the Roman trattoria dishes from former Pidgin chef Naz Hassan. Visiting on a sunny opening night, the small dining room was as lively as anywhere in the Trastevere: tables packed together as tightly as Lazio’s defence, waiters moving to a Roy Ayers soundtrack while the ceiling fan whirls overhead, glasses of Franciacorta poured. Ed Templeton, the other co-owner and co-founder of Carousel, is working the floor, an amiable presence who comes over for a chat. Living in Rome for a couple of years when he was younger was a formative experience, and a recent Carousel pop-up in Rome sealed the deal. “While I was there we were served the most extraordinary carbonara – yolky and silky and transformative – and it got me thinking that there aren’t really any purely Roman restaurants in London. We wanted Lupa to be a classic neighbourhood hangout; approachable, a place where you can eat out for less than £50, and Rome’s cucina popolare – hearty, tasty cooking for the people – fitted that brief.’ It’s certainly tasty, drawing on the city’s deep-fried traditions for dishes such as fior di zucca, a crisp tempura courgette flower, creamy with anchovy-spiked burrata and set in a puddle of courgette sauce to be wiped up with hunks of focaccia. A thinly sliced tomato carpaccio is gritted with breadcrumbs; the simple pasta dishes of triofie al pesto and carbonara are wonderfully light, the paccheri loops of the latter dotted with nubs of salty guanciale for texture (I’ll be back later for the classic cacio e pepe). We share a secondi of porchetta – the thick whirl of pork scattered with rosemary leaves – with a side of vignarola, a buttery jumble of chopped asparagus, artichokes, peas and broad beans, saving the perfectly crisp pork crackling to crunch on last. A slice of cherry-and-ricotta pie and tiramisu are polished off in a matter of seconds. It’s all clattery and convivial and everything you want a neighbourhood restaurant to be – unlike James’ prosthetic in White Lotus, this is the genuine article. Rick Jordan
Address: 73 Highbury Park, London N5 1UA
Price: ££
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Town, Covent Garden
Theatre-goers may be flocking to Drury Lane to see a play about cuddly, Ghibli-wibbly Japanese tree spirits in My Neighbour Totoro, but right opposite is a new show that’s just as escapist. And probably more fun. Chef impresario Stevie Parle’s latest production number has a cast list of ingredients sourced from around the UK – grass-fed beef tended by Groove Armada’s Andy Cato, Welsh lobster, Kent asparagus, Coombeshead Mangalitsa pork shoulder – and chefs with Luca, Saison and Padella on their CVs. But what hits you first of all is the set design. There are curves upon curves, lava-stone countertops and a green-lacquered kitchen counter; low-slung Jacobsen chairs and, above, an illuminated coffered ceiling. It’s very Italian disco, quite Rubik’s Cube and just a little 2001: A Space Odyssey. And with the pin-up print of an orange Dodge Charger on one wall, a tad Dukes of Hazzard. It’s the sort of decor that staff should really be roller-skating around to.
Next to all all this glamorous shimmy, you worry that the actual food may appear a little drab, or see-saw more towards style than substance, but Ballymaloe-trained Parle is a good old boy of London dining with restaurants such as Sardine, JOY and Pastaio under his belt. The snacks list is a joy, with surprises such as a gilda (mackerel, cucumber and shiso leaf), caviar and beef-fat crisps (the ultimate high-low?) and tongue-sized fried sage leaves crusted in honey from Parle’s bees. When did you last talk about sage leaves? The current star of the show, however, is the potato sourdough with house gravy, the deep, rich aroma of which seems to rise up from the dish and do an impression of the famous Bisto advert. You could just stop here, but waiting in the wings are steaks, that lobster (amplified by XO and lardo) and roasted bone marrow with spiced risotto, along with puds such as matcha ice cream and appley custard doughnuts. With a two-course lunch available for £23 and a service charge of just 10 per cent, it’s all attractively affordable. In the words of the old theatre review, if you have to beg, borrow or steal a ticket to experience this, then do so.
Address: 26-29 Drury Lane, London WC2B 5RL
Price: ££
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Best new London restaurants in May 2025
Hello JoJo, Camberwell
Camberwell’s local community is fiercely loyal, so when we heard that Forza Win was shutting its doors, we felt a sense of unease as to what would open in its place. When Hello JoJo opened for business, we knew our concerns were unwarranted. This new opening sits like a beacon on Camberwell Church Street – a powder blue exterior with bright red arched windows beckons you from the hustle and bustle. The interior feels much like a Danish design showroom: various blues make up the plywood countertops that give way to tiled walls; slick pendant lights and mushroom lamps provide the perfect lighting for large-scale local artwork across the back wall; groovy bench seating and cherry red tables create a balance of textures. It’s a comfortable space to spend an evening. The ambience is incredibly community-centric – locals stream in and out while Jo herself greets diners. The menu celebrates seasonal sharing plates, meaning we had an incredible variety, given that spring is well and truly in full swing. We started with a warm, fresh mini-loaf (yes, mini-loaf) of bread, the ideal dipping vehicle for the earthy artichoke cream. This dish might have been my favourite of the evening. What can I say? I love a bread course. Next, we ordered the cod cheek kokotxas, fava asparagus and yellow wax beans, the courgette and basil ditalini, and potato dumplings and peas served on buttermilk. The dishes came out in quick succession, making it challenging to fit everything on the table; however, I do appreciate serving dishes while they’re hot. The larger plates were by far my favourite of the bunch – the courgette and basil ditallini was rich in colour and the sweetness of the courgette with the slightly peppery basil made for a beautifully balanced dish. The potato dumplings were incredibly rich, which was to be expected; the exteriors were crisp and crunchy, while the peas and buttermilk brought through a lovely sweet flavour. We rounded things off with a rapeseed oil mousse, juicy strawberries (it’s a good year for berries, and it shows!), and toasted buckwheat. It was a deliciously light way to end a lovely evening. Hello JoJo will undoubtedly become another Camberwell favourite. Top tip: they'll also open a bakery at the end of May, slinging out delicious pastries and must-buy breads. Amber Port
Address: 31 Camberwell Church St, London SE5 8TR
Price: ££
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Permit Room Portobello, Notting Hill
The queue stretching down Portobello Road provokes a gasp as we arrive at Permit Rooms on a balmy spring evening. Not that its popularity should come as any surprise, mind. The soft launch offer of 50 per cent off the food bill in return for honest feedback helps. Still, the hundred-strong throng of hungry Londoners eager to be among the first into the restaurant reflects the capital’s ongoing love affair with Dishoom, from which Permit Rooms comes. The first London outpost, which follows successful openings in Brighton, Oxford and Cambridge, is a buzzy billet-doux to Bombay’s drinking dens – all-day hangouts for hungry passers-by. Downstairs, a cacophony of clinking cutlery and hums of satisfaction fill the street-level bar area, chestnut and chocolate shades joyfully interrupted by the bar face’s playful deep turquoise. The immersive decor flows into the dining room above, where we’re sat and watch the hustle and bustle play out between overflowing tabletops as we anticipate the arrival of a rich chai caffè martini. Menus mirror those of Dishoom’s to an extent, albeit with a generous spread of options exclusive to the Permit Room format. We ladle peanut masala, a crunchy jumble of roasted fresh peanuts tossed with chopped tomato, onion, coriander, chilli and lime juice, into our mouths between cocktail sipping, and the main event soon follows. Service is speedy, so much so that we’re soon surrounded, picky bits and larger dishes side-by-side. We swerve the signature chicken ruby in favour of the mattar paneer, creamy cubes of cheese and a hearty helping of peas inviting us to pile them atop piles of rice and get to work with steaming scraps of naan bread. However, it’s the prawn recheado that warrants a return visit sooner rather than later. Plump, pan-tanned prawns piled in a tangy masala of red chillies, garlic and ginger – a satisfyingly meaty event that has us in a stand-off over the last bite. Reluctantly *cough cough* pudding appears. Piping hot rum-soaked gulab jamun is better suited to a chilly winter’s evening, but it is the excuse we jump at to book in and overindulge another time. With Permit Room Lodgings, a sumptuous set of bedrooms directly above the restaurant, set to open within weeks, I’ll hopefully be shimmying into pyjamas rather than standing on the tube home next time I feast in this leafy corner of Notting Hill. Connor Sturges
Address: Permit Room, 186 Portobello Road, London W11 1LA
Price: ££
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One Club Row, Shoreditch
Is there anything cooler than entering a bar or restaurant through a door that only those in the know can recognise? Perhaps when said restaurant is on one of East London’s back streets, and the walls that surround it are covered in a rainbow of artsy graffiti. Inside, up the rickety wooden staircase and behind a velvet curtain, is One Club Row, the intimate new dining space inspired by New York glamour and the city’s old-school approach to hospitality. Seats at the bar are considered the best in the house by some, but our perch on a circular, white clothed table in the far corner of the room would be my go-to every time – where better to people watch and soak up the buzz of a space filled with sociable chatter and the melodic sound of a cocktail shaker chilling a frosty martini?
Since we’re on it, the martinis deserve a special mention. The signature recipe is sweet, sophisticated and dangerously morish. Served alongside oysters, I feel fully immersed in this New York City fantasy I’ve entered. We share small plates of scallops served in the shell, doorstep sourdough with salted butter, and tuna crudo, before moving on to Champagne and a fillet of roasted cod so beautiful I can still taste it now. The menu is varied and tempting, and I mentally confirm an order of lobster tagliatelle when I (inevitably) return, though the table next to us seems wholly delighted with their rib-eye steak for two. To finish, twice-baked chocolate cake with crème fraiche and a wedge of strawberry-topped cheesecake that tastes nostalgic in the best possible way. I want to stay and soak up the atmosphere, and it feels rude not to order a nightcap. A round of Manhattans to stick with the theme. Cheers to a wonderful evening in New York, by way of Shoreditch.
Address: One Club Row, 1 Club Row, London E1 6JX
Price: £££
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Josephine Marylebone
In contrast to the Lyonnaise cuisine served at sister eatery Josephine Bouchon in Chelsea, the menu at this Marylebone little sister is full-on classic Parisienne, with interiors to match: café curtains, antique walled mirrors smothered with Art Nouveau posters and Impressionist prints; ceiling murals of Cancan dancers, and a soundtrack replete with Jeanne Moreau chansons françaises and Serge Gainsbourg’s lascivious vocals. The effect is cosy, immersive and ever so French.
Brasserie classics dominate the starters, like the Camembert soufflé and the knockout French onion soup, its layers beautifully tangy and peppery. Mains include bold-flavoured filet de bœuf and poulet aux Morilles, while potato junkies will love the pommes de terre menu, featuring spuds in all forms, from purée to frites. I paired my gratin Dauphinois with a juicy pork belly main, mushrooms and wholegrain mustard, which hit the spot just as hard as the crispy-skinned brill. Only cooked seafood was available on opening night, but something tells us the menu’s Homard Mayonnaise, langoustines, crevettes roses and freshly shucked oysters at the dedicated oyster kiosk will be worth the wait.
Another standout feature is the vast and excellent range of wines and vintage champagnes, mainly from the Loire Valley and Bordeaux; and in a rare treat, there’s even Salon Blanc de Blancs Brut by the glass. Desserts took a playful turn with the blast-from-the-past banana split, a retro riot of chantilly and glacé cherries beneath a cocktail umbrella. Other items include popular staples like the Rhum Baba and the Grand Marnier soufflé (though the latter was actually a parfait but we’ll let that one slide since the rest of the menu rocked). The overall verdict: magnifique. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 6-8 Blandford Street, London, W1U 4AU
Price: ££
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Tatar Bunar, Shoreditch
Traditional Ukrainian dishes aren't exactly common in the UK, but that hasn't stopped the crowds from gathering at Tatar Bunar, which is packed out just one week on from its Shoreditch launch. The 90-cover space, named after the owner's hometown of Tatarbunary in the country's relatively warmer southern region, is the first London outpost from Ukrainian restaurateurs Alex Cooper and Anna Andriienko. Inside is an ode to the country's traditional craftsmanship, with soft terracotta and neutral styling pepped up with art by various Ukrainian artists – watermelons feature heavily in one painting, which grow abundantly in the south – and tiles, crockery and vases by Svetlana Sholomitska, made during the blackouts in Kyiv. It's an education in regional cuisine, with a menu led with Alex's mother's own recipes, nodding to decades-old family traditions. But that doesn’t make it your average Ukrainian fare – at least not according to my native dining partner. Signature varenyks dumplings, typically filled with potato, are instead stuffed with lamb and beef with a blob of sharp pickled tomatoes on the side. Sour cream, a national staple served alongside most meals, is smoked (“I just asked my mother and she has never heard of such a thing," says my friend). It's a sharing concept, but portions are generous enough to assuage any naysayers, and staff will readily talk through dishes if you're unfamiliar. Either way, it's a joy to try something new. Soft onion bread comes with lardo; a fatty, thinly-sliced layer of pork rind to be smeared on top. A bowl of tiny pickled tomatoes is a sweet, moreish delight with each bite (a surprise favourite among everyone who's tried). A highlight is a bowl of banush; an indulgent chunk of oxtail that falls immediately off the bone atop buttery mash and a swirl of pesto, and a flame-grilled rabbit skewer has a char almost as smoky as the sour cream. Eating here was a novel experience all round, but a simple bowl of fluffy potato latkes, arriving hidden among a jumble of spinach and mushroom, elicited the grandest response from my more knowledgeable partner: “For me, this tastes like home.” Charley Ward
Address: 152 Curtain Rd, London EC2A 3AT
Price: £££
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Best new London restaurants in March 2025
The Lavery, South Kensington
I recently took a trip where I met a friendly American family who told me they would soon be visiting London for a couple of days. “What should we do with our time?” they asked, to which I replied, “Museums are always a safe bet, and you don’t have to rely on the weather”. But then I remembered: “Oh, but you might want to go somewhere else to eat, the restaurant options in South Kensington aren’t great.” How lovely, then, to soon after find a note about a new restaurant in my inbox promising beautiful ingredients, a unique setting and a regularly-changing menu.
The Lavery is a restaurant, cafe and event space a stone’s throw from South Kensington station. Its position amidst the chain restaurants known to populate the area automatically makes it a top choice for diners wanting something more upmarket, but its history as the former home and studio of painter Sir John Lavery will entice architecture aficionados. And they won’t be disappointed. The room housing the restaurant offers something totally different than most restaurants; expect high ceilings, original wooden flooring and a refreshingly simple lack of decor – the fireplace, baroque-style mirrors and intricate cornicing sit as a focal point around the tables, allowing the chatter of diners to gently drift across the room and enhance the feeling of being in someone’s living room (albeit a very fancy living room).
The menu, led by former River Café chef Yohei Furuhashi, highlights Mediterranean seasonality while incorporating influences from the British Isles. The offering changes daily but, during our visit, we were particularly impressed by the seafood on offer; the Scottish scallop was served with tomato for a unique bite, while the monkfish with beans had a fresh kick of olive oil and lemon coming through. The pomelo and passionfruit mess is a much-photographed dish, but I’d skip its tartness in favour of the loquat and hazelnut tart next time. And a special mention to the inventive wine list, with glasses from Slovakia and Georgia, plus the excellent cocktails served from the chic bar next door: the rhubarb sour is one I’d return for. All in all, The Lavery offers a vibey, unique dining experience in a part of London that’s been begging for a shake-up. Abigail Malbon
Address: The Lavery, 4 Cromwell Place, South Kensington, London SW7 2JE
Price: ££
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Lucky Cat at 22 Bishopsgate
In terms of sensational cityscapes, Gordon Ramsay’s new Lucky Cat restaurant at 22 Bishopsgate surely can’t be topped. Since opening last month, it has taken the official spot of the highest restaurant in Europe, and it is by no means for those with a fear of heights. Spread across three floors, Ramsay has opened his latest pan-Asian offering (the original London location opened in 2019 in Mayfair), a 12-seater version of his Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, a cooking academy and a roof terrace that is set to open on the very top of the building. A lift shoots guests high up to the 60th floor at a lightning rate, and doors open onto the glitz and glamour of a sweeping bar, a slick open kitchen and plush red velvet banquette seating you’ll be hard-pressed to pull yourself out of. And, of course, there is that view. At the risk of sounding hyperbolic, the experience of looking out of the giant swathes of glass out to the panoramic views of the capital is so high up that most of the city below looks like a toy play set of sorts. You find yourself looking down on all the greatest hits: the Tower of London, the Shard, and the river Thames, which looks like nothing more than a simple stream from such great heights. And then, of course, it’s back to the internal workings, which are fabulous in their own right. There is something wonderfully celebratory about the atmosphere at Lucky Cat, which somehow begs you to dig in, stay a while, and have fun.
The Lucky Cat Negroni is a fun way to kick things off, a dice being rolled to determine the combo of gin, vermouth and bitters used in your cocktail (there are, apparently, 216 possible options). If that isn’t to your liking, the drinks list is seemingly endless and, as the restaurant is open until 3am from Thursdays to Saturdays (complete with live music), the bar is set to become a late-night London hotspot in and of itself. Lovers of sushi, sashimi and nigiri are spoilt for choice; the chef’s sushi platter is a great option if you want all that and more from the astonishing raw bar. The ‘bottomless baos’ are also proving a big hit, and if you aren’t a raw fish lover, the robata grill offerings, the tempura, the Japanese fillet steak – all will delight. And, as you leave, waved away by the endless golden Maneki-neko cats that adorn the restaurant, remember those are not party favours (Ramsay recently bemoaned the many that are being taken home by diners as keepsakes). Cass Farrar
Address: Floor 60, 22 Bishopsgate, London, EC2N 4AJ
Price: £££
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Silva, Mayfair
There’s a new Mediterranean eatery in town and it's as stylish as it is delicious. Silva's inconspicuous location, on a cobbled alley just off Bond Street, makes it all the more alluring. Curved walls are lined with comfy sofas wrapped in eclectic patterns juxtaposing angular tables and sculpted wooden chairs. It’s open all day, but despite the breakfast menu’s temptations, it’s dinner that you want to be here for. The space itself is long and slim, softly lit with embedded lighting, and an alcove at the back separates a couple of tables from the main room. That said, the setting feels intimate throughout, and even the smaller tables – set pretty close to one another – feel cosy. Upstairs, there’s a private dining room; I’m told when the restaurant opened in November, it hosted multiple festive celebrations and I can see why. Perhaps they served a taste of imaginative cocktail recipes courtesy of the mixologists downstairs or wines chosen specifically by the on-site sommelier? We’re treated to this at dinner, though the non-alcoholic creations also deserve a special mention.
Now for the food. The presentation is beautiful and begins with seabass crudo and salmon tartare, which I can recommend. Dishes change with the season, and we chose spatchcock chicken and wild mushroom risotto, which felt warming yet surprisingly light – a combination that worked well considering the list of desserts, which we’d eyed up before so much as taking off our coats. Basque cheesecake and chocolate tart make it impossible to choose just one, and while I wouldn’t describe Silva as a classic ‘sharer plate’ dining destination like so many in London, here’s where we tasted both. With dinner this memorable, maybe I will try the breakfast offering after all. Sarah Bannerman
Address: Silva Restaurant, 26-28 Bruton Place, London W1J 6NG
Price: £££
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The Brave, Islington
With lashings of comfort, dollops of innovation and more than a crumb of unpretentious style, it’s only fair that James Cochran’s latest foodie venture is being celebrated across the city. The Brave may be marketed as a “bistro-pub”, but I’d place it more in the “bistro” category than the traditional sticky-floored London boozer. Perched on the lively Essex Road, The Brave’s jolly blue exterior is easy to spot – with windows awash in warm candlelight, it’s an enticing scene on a freezing evening in February.
Taking inspiration from both his Scottish and Caribbean heritage (think neep and tattie hash browns or the jerk chicken scotch egg), Cochrane’s new menu showcases the best ingredients from the UK’s wild larder – from Whitstable rock oysters drizzled in a bone marrow vinaigrette to a zippy Scottish razor clam ceviche. The menu consists mostly of small plates ideal for sharing, and though you might think this would make choosing our selection that bit easier, we spent many minutes poring over the options and debating which dishes to shortlist. Some highlights included the succulent prawn toast, a beef tartare bite that was transcendental and the softest Devonshire crab in a lively curry sauce. Suitable for those with a serious sweet tooth, we finished with the baked Alaska dessert – pearlescent cascades of marshmallowy goodness (almost) too aesthetically pleasing to tuck into.
Ever since the closure of his locally revered flagship 12:51 last September, there’s certainly been a James Cochran-shaped hole on the Islington dining scene. 12:51 has left some big shoes to fill, but this brave new venture is, in my opinion, more than capable of taking on the challenge. Lucy Bruton
Address: The Brave, 340-342 Essex Road, London N1 3PB
Price: ££
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Best new London restaurants in February 2025
Bar Valette, Shoreditch
Something I love about London is the juxtaposition. It’s fascinating for so many truths to exist at once – the frenzied energy of Kingsland Road and the sheer comfort and laid-back nature of a restaurant like Bar Valette. The deep green exterior and warm light that seeps from the windows are like a siren’s song that beckons us into its cosy depths. The interiors are stylish but not pompous. Colourful cubist artworks sit on taupe walls, while minimalist light fixtures dot the space, creating a relaxed ambience. Shelves lined with pots, glasses and jars of preserves accentuate the room while guests chat at white paper cloth tables. We sit and are promptly greeted by Wilem, who encourages us to order their house Martini, a savoury, dry take on the classic cocktail. It comes as no surprise that Isaac McHale, the chef behind London’s beloved Clove Club, whipped up an unfussy menu that pays homage to the vibrant dishes of Southern France and the simplicity of Spanish food. We sip greedily while looking at the menu noting the nice balance of meat and fish dishes to suit all palates, but it’s not incredibly vegetarian-friendly, which, thankfully, is fine by me. The menu includes picky bits, starters, mains and, of course, pudding. We start with a Swiss chard barbujuan and clapshot croquette, both of which are delicious. The barbujuan is the stand-out of the two dishes – an ever-so-delicate ravioli-shaped fritter filled with subtle flavours from the chard. Let's talk about starters. Specifically, the braised venison meatballs and snails, cooked Madrid-style, i.e. in a pork trotter broth. The snails were tasty but not for the faint-hearted – it’s a messy and hands-on affair where you become incredibly aware that you are eating snails, something my partner struggled to overcome. I had no problems, but relationships are all about balance, right? However, something that we could agree on is that the meatballs were out of this world. Rich with umami and perfectly fatty – a killer dish that must be ordered – no ifs, ands, or buts. We share the whole sea bream with green olive emulsion as our main. Hints of smokiness cut through the delicate flavour of the sea bream and are beautifully balanced by the olive tapenade's briny notes. Don’t sleep on the sides either – the duck fat sauté potatoes are so indulgent and incredibly worth it. We finish with a sweet wine and gâteau basque. This dessert hails from the French side of Basque country and boasts a layer of dried fruit and custard with a crumbly buttery crust. And my, oh my, was it the cherry on top of an unreal meal. So folks, don’t walk, run to Bar Valette. Amber Port
Address: Bar Valette, 28 Kingsland Road, London E2 8AA
Price: £££
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La Môme, The Berkeley, Knightsbridge
Ever since twin brothers Ugo and Antoine Lecorché opened La Môme in Cannes in 2015, serving classic-contemporary Provencal and Italian cuisine, the restaurant quickly became a fixture on the French Riviera, expanding along the rue Florian before branching into Monte Carlo. So when the siblings announced a London iteration at The Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, fans were ecstatic. It’s a wholesale transfer in which nothing has been lost in translation: the same peachy-hued interiors by award-winning interior architect Samy Chams (in a space previously occupied by Marcus Wareing’s Michelin-star Marcus); and the same fabulous food presented with performative flair, be it the thyme snipped at the table and mixed with olive oil, or the whole seabass delivered in flames and filleted tableside. It’s what La Môme does best: traditional high-end service executed from the heart in a casual, fun atmosphere, soundtracked by confidently unpretentious pop classics and a live singer-pianist.
Classic cocktails with a Mediterranean twist (e.g. the Winter Sour with Amaretto) were followed by knockout crudo starters. The gorgeously fatty tuna tartare and sesame oil was fresh and tangy; the ceviche-style seabass with crunchy corn came with a passion fruit sauce that complimented it quietly. The yellowtail carpaccio in a citrusy ponzu dressing was divine. A similar intensity of flavour was guaranteed in the mains, such as the scallop risotto main scattered with taste-bomb capers. Truffles junkies will love the Beef Rossini fillet in a Périgourdine sauce, topped with seared foie gras and copious shavings of fresh black truffle. Seared in my brain is the grilled seabass, topped with tomatoes and pine nuts in a sensational white wine vinegar marinade that rendered the tall pepper dispenser, standing so prominently on the table, utterly redundant. The desserts did not disappoint either, my favourite being the six-inch Cookie, an indulgent melange of Nutella, milk and dark chocolate, pistachio cream and vanilla ice cream. The entire menu was Riviera sunshine on a plate. Judging by the crowd – a cross-section of lovers, families, business suits, the old and the young – La Môme looks set to become a stalwart of the London food scene, and rightly so. We love it. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: La Môme London, Wilton Place, London SW1X 7RL
Price: £££
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Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, City of London
I’m always wary of a restaurant with a view. Too often, destination dining addresses hide behind their natural vantage points – whether oceanfront, mountain top or city skyline. As I zoomed up 60 floors in the elevator at 22 Bishopsgate, I could feel both gravity and some niggling doubts start to take hold. It’s the opening night of Gordon Ramsay’s ambitious new dining concept, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High – a 12-seater chef’s table that, at 269 metres above ground, makes it the tallest restaurant in Europe.
I enter via the reimagined Lucky Cat where the music is thrumming, the decor is glitzy, and the energy is electric – quite the contrast to slip into RGR High, a clean and cool room with dark, understated design details, the glittering London skyline mapped out before us being the only embellishment this space needs.
RGR High subverts the normal chef’s table set-up. Where diners are usually positioned at the front row of the cooking action, here, they’ve placed the kitchen behind the guests. As we sat down it became clear that this was a clever trick of double exposure – the activity in the kitchen behind being reflected onto the view in front.
This attention to detail is reflected throughout the carte blanche menu too, influenced each day by season, suppliers or the whim of executive chef James Goodyear. Some of the more innovative courses on tonight's menu included an oyster ice cream that sat like a perfect pearl, a cocoa-encrusted duck and a creamy truffle "cappuccino". Aside from the experimental, I’m reminded that you can tell a good restaurant by its humble bread serving. Bountiful round pillows bursting at the seams with sage and onion overtones remind me of home cooking and Sunday roasts, elevated by a slathering of airy liver parfait. Each course slips down with the help of the carefully considered wine pairing, with glasses showcasing the best grapes from Austria to Australia. As it turns out, I should have left my niggling doubts on the ground floor. Lucy Bruton
Address: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, 22 Bishopsgate, City of London, London EC2N 4BQ
Price: £££
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Dove, Notting Hill
Anything attached to super chef Jackson Boxer is guaranteed to draw crowds, so getting a table at Dove the week after launch was no easy feat. Luckily, the buzz around the new – or rather, updated – opening was entirely justified. Located in the heart of Notting Hill, Dove replaces Boxer’s Orasay; the much-loved seafood restaurant that, by the chef’s own admission, “...was never a very lucrative business”. The newer iteration has a more accessible menu, simply made up of dishes that Boxer himself wants to cook and eat; a simple concept, but it’s clear that leading with passion can only be a positive thing in the current climate.
The result is a menu that’s casual but innovative: a plate of winter tomatoes served with sour cream and a smoky chilli crisp was memorable, and a true representation of this menu: seemingly simple dishes that you’d need to spend hours or even days getting right at home. The potato cakes topped with yuzu, lardo and juicy red prawns were fat, full of flavour and an ideal way to get started. The grilled bavette steak with black garlic and bone marrow was perfectly done, and the coffee cardamom caramel cream was a beautiful blend of bitter and sweet, with some unique flavours peeping through. With just the two of us eating, it was impossible to get through everything on the menu, but there were a few dishes I’d love to return to try; the chicken in Cafe de Paris butter, first and foremost.
Despite the heaving schedule, service was a highlight of the meal, and staff recommended a wonderful wine that paired well with our wide variety of dishes. We spoke briefly with Boxer, who seemed thrilled with the change of pace and initial reception the new menu was getting. There’s no doubt that this one will be well-received by regulars and first-timers alike, and I'll be right there among them, fighting for a table. Abigail Malbon
Address: 31 Kensington Park Rd, London W11 2EU
Price: ££
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Don't Tell Dad, Queen's Park
Forget Old Compton Street or Marylebone High Street: there's a new foodie thoroughfare in London – and it's not even in Zone 1. Pretty, cobbled Lonsdale Road, which cuts through leafy neighbourhood Queen's Park, has quietly been making a name for itself with a clutch of bright restaurants keeping locals, well, local, and drawing curious foodies northwest in the pursuit of a brilliant supper. First came Aussie joint Milk Beach, then Eastern Mediterranean Carmel. Now, bakery-meets-restaurant Don't Tell Dad has flung open its doors to add more star power to an otherwise unassuming street. Helmed by Coco di Mama founder and Queen's Park resident Daniel Land, he's installed head chef Luke Frankie (ex-Noble Rot, Forza Wine and Spring) at the pass, while Keren Sternberg (previously of Layla) oversees the concoctions in the bakery.
As a local, I'd already popped in twice before visiting for dinner one cold January evening just before the team hard-launched – which meant I had tried an embarrassing amount of Sternberg's pastries. They're sold in the bakery each morning, with customers taking a perch on the plush booths or communal table, complete with a mural of the local area, to share hazelnut brown butter croissants or, my favourite, artichoke, sage and Lancashire cheese Pain Suisse. An enormous open kitchen and copper bar connects the bakery to the dining room, which, by night, becomes a low-lit space for long, convivial suppers. We settled into one of the booths, with a front-row seat to the open kitchen with its The Bear energy. First, oxtail crumpets arrived – crispy on the outside, fluffy in the middle, topped with melty ragu and a moreish dripping crumb; I would happily order six of these on my next visit. We ordered the crab tart, which was zingy and fresh, and the radicchio with clementine and fresh cheese, which was, for me, one of the few misses on the menu. Things were turned back around when the mains arrived: blushing roast lamb with cavolo nero and, my highlight, delicate partridge. This buzzy new spot might already be beloved by locals, but we'd put money on it becoming a destination table-to-book whatever your neighbourhood.
Address: Don't Tell Dad, 10-14 Lonsdale Road, London NW6 6RD
Price: ££
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Best new London restaurants in December 2024
Miga, Hackney
Contrary to popular belief, sometimes the best things in life aren’t free; they’re hard-earned — a theory which would explain the success of Miga, more than 22 years in the making. A refined yet wholesome family affair, the contemporary Korean eatery arrived on Mare Street, Hackney, in June, care of chef Hyun Sang Ko, and his two sons, both named Jae Ko. Borrowing its name from their family’s first restaurant in New Malden — which Hyun Sang’s ‘wifey’ revived as a takeaway during the Pandemic and continues to run today — its offering draws inspiration from dishes passed down from the brothers’ grandmother, who was crowned one of Seoul’s top three chefs in the 1970s. A pared-back white space styled with walnut accents, an unimposing open kitchen, and wide-eyed patrons nodding at one another in delight, the dining room plays host to a much-loved type of Korean cooking rarely found nor celebrated in London’s restaurant scene — not ‘fast’, barbequed or fine dining, but home-style flavours, cooked and served with the utmost precision and skill. Warming, tangy, fresh, hot, sweet and funky, here every craving has an antidote: a broth, stir fry, bibimbap or braised meat offered by team members who aren’t just happy to help but to educate, too. Jo Taylor
Address: Miga, 1 Mare Street, London E8 4RP
Price: ££
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The Grill at The Hero, Maida Vale
Even before you’re sat at your table, The Grill bedazzles with its grand 1870s proportions, its intricately plastered high ceilings, distressed walls painted in pale terracotta, and natural light that pours through chipped and splintered wooden window frames. This Maida Vale gastropub manages to be both stately and yet understated, like a beautiful woman who doesn’t wear make-up. And the food is just as gorgeous. The owners of Notting Hill’s Pelican, the Bull in Charlbury, and the Canteen have launched their most recent venture one floor above The Hero pub and established what might be the best restaurant in the city right now. The reassuringly concise menu mixes simple British pub classics with elegant seafood (and makes very few concessions to vegetarians – so it is best to leave your herbivore friends in the pub downstairs). Our first starter, raw beef seasoned with black pepper on a crunchy hash brown, was a satisfying take on beef tartare, while the coarse country pork leg paté burst into life when slathered with mustard. Best of all was the wild Scottish girolle and oyster mushrooms topped with an oozy confit egg yolk. If items like the sweetbread (lamb pancreas) with tasty lobster sauce might wrinkle some noses, it’s only at a deeply principled level since all dishes were executed flawlessly, including the turbot main in parsley butter sauce and – my favourite – the utterly divine parsnip puree and venison, which was neither overcooked nor too gamey. Equally memorable were the sides: my huge mountain of French fries was so flavoursome I forgot to ask for my mandatory ketchup. In theory, the cheddar shavings couldn’t possibly offset the bitterness of sprouts, yet somehow they did and with aplomb. While gulping down a mouthwatering brown butter sorbet for dessert, I kept one eye on the neighbouring table’s sleek-looking lemon tart, which was a knockout, too. Let’s hope this culinary star never fades. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 55 Shirland Road, Maida Vale, W9 2JD
Price: £££
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Agora, Borough
If you walk through Borough Market on any night, you’ll see a queue snaking opposite The Globe Tavern, packed with people happily sipping cocktails and in surprisingly good spirits, given the wait. They’re hoping to secure a table at Agora, the hot restaurant housed underneath foodie favourite Oma, where piping hot spreads, skewers and salads are constantly being passed around as diners look on hopefully, praying that their wait is finally over.
It’s easy to see why this place has caused such a stir among Londoners; it’s fun, fast-paced, new, and delicious. From David Carter, the mastermind behind Smokestak and Manteca, the Greek-inspired menu offers a selection it’s hard not to feel hungry for: creamy hummus topped with crushed hot crisps, an incredible Greek salad second only to the ones I ate on the island of Andros this summer, and a spicy pork sausage flatbread with spit roast pineapple and hot honey. Combined with a fun cocktail menu that feels like it was designed to sit alongside the food (the acidic Lemongrass Paloma was an ideal accompaniment for the fatty, grilled meats on the menu) and a vast wine selection – including their own that’s delicious and at under-£ 6 a glass – it’s worthy of the hype. And while there are many things in London I would not queue for, I truly would wait for Agora again. Abigail Malbon
Address: Agora, 4 Bedale Street, London SE1 9AL
Price: ££
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