Nihi Sumba, Indonesia

Why book?

The epitome of luxury, a splash the cash, lavish resort hugging the wild, rugged coastline of sleepy Sumba island.

Set the scene

We are hit with two responses every time we mention heading to Sumba; it’s either “Where is that?” or “Ah, you must be going to Nihi”. Sumba island doesn't have much infrastructure and tourist necessities; it can only be reached via an hour's flight from lively neighbour Bali, but the two are incomparable. Sumba is sleepy, vast, and raw to its roots. It is very much like Bali before it became a tourist hotspot. Enter Nihi, an hour and a half’s drive from the airport through rural villages where houses are built from bamboo and over windy mountain roads where the occasional buffalo herd blocks the way. We reach the far west coast and enter the 567-acre estate Nihi occupies along a 2.5km stretch of blissfully remote wild coastline. Nihi is a far cry from life on the rest of the island, bar another few resorts getting ahead of the game, an island where tourism could one day consume the untouched natural beauty.

The backstory

In 2021, American entrepreneur Christopher Burch invested 30 million dollars into Nihi, which was previously founded by surfers Claude and Petra Graves in 1988, who were riding the waves of the western coast and decided to open Nihi as a surf retreat. After the massive injection of money and the help of hotelier James McBride, now co-founder and CEO, Nihi was transformed into the icon we know today. Often scooping up awards and paving the way for other luxury resorts, Nihi sits in a league above the rest. Following the hotel's success, it’s no surprise that expansion is already underway, with plenty more villas being built and set for an end-of-year launch in 2025.

The rooms

Villas built with traditional Sumba sky-high roofs (culturally representing being closer to god) in all natural materials emerge from the coastline with manicured gardens and private pools. Villas range from doubles to huge residences sleeping up to eight guests. No matter the party size, all villas are super spacious, with a lounge decorated in local carvings and textiles and huge vases of palms, grand bedrooms with canopy beds, outdoor bathrooms, balconies with sea views and free-standing bathtubs and plenty of outdoor space to lap up the sun's rays either poolside or under a parasol on a private terrace.

The food and drink

Two restaurants are onsite, with uninterrupted sea views and different vibes. Dinner is a more formal affair, with guests dressed to impress, while the pool club is rather casual, with some guests rocking up straight from the waves with tousled hair and swimwear. Enjoy all-inclusive food and soft drinks until your stomach can no longer. The menu for every occasion is huge, spoilt for choice between local flavours or Western home comforts. We recommend you don’t play it safe; instead of ordering the woodfired pizza (just have that at home), go for the Indonesian Mie Goreng – noodles tossed with chicken in a sweet sauce topped with a fried egg. Or the delicious chicken satay served over burning coals. Local food always wins. Portions are on the large side, leaving you rolling to the pool if desired.

Wellness

Nihi takes wellness to a new level with an offsite spa 15 minutes drive down the road perched on the cliffside amongst rice paddies, tall palms and a stable with retired horses for equestrian healing. Book a half-day or full-day visit or stay onsite at the spa's private villa overlooking the ocean, perfect for honeymooners or those popping the question. Spa days begin early; either hop in the open safari vehicle and be whisked away at ease, or start the morning with a 90-minute guided trek across lush jungle and visit a local village on route or jump on a horse and enjoy a leisurely trot to the offsite facilities. Whatever way you choose to get to the spa, just know you are in for a treat. Begin the experience by selecting your treatments while sipping fresh coconut water; they are all scribbled on a blackboard and explained by staff. There are different kinds of massage, body scrubs and wraps, hair masks, facials, and reflexology. Selecting the treatments you want to enjoy throughout the experience is as hard as the day gets – hot stone or traditional healing massage? Tough choice. Once you’ve decided your fate for the day, indulge with a healthy breakfast of fruits, chia seeds, granola and fresh juices enjoyed in a treehouse overlooking the lapping waves, followed by either a swim break in the outdoor spa pool or your treatments of choice which last two and a half hours for a half day or five hours for the day experience. Best of luck peeling yourself back to reality after leaving the spa bed in a state of euphoria.

The area

Make sure to embark on several excursions during your stay to experience the real side of the island, away from the comfort of cocktails at the poolside. Unless you’ve hired a car (which you most likely haven’t), getting out on your own is almost impossible, so fill up your stay with a few of Nihi's cultural or adventurous excursions. We loved the blue waterfall trip, which included a vigorous, sweaty trek through the jungle to reach an empty, bright blue lagoon with a towering cascade. Or embark on a traditional village tour to learn about local culture, then a trip to a Sumbese market and art shop to buy some handmade souvenirs. There are excursions to be enjoyed at the resort, from sunrise horse rides along the beach to turtle release at golden hour.

The service

You won’t lift a finger from the moment you reach Bali airport – yes, Bali is a separate island. We were greeted by ground staff, who checked in our bags and made sure we boarded the flight to Sumba. On the other side, Nihi staff had already been sent images of our luggage, and they picked it up for us while we were already en route, with a coconut in hand, to the Leading Hotels Of The World resort.

It feels like half the island is working at Nihi, from full-time gardeners sweeping up fallen bougainvillaea flowers to jolly nannies assisting with childcare, smiley waiting staff topping up drinks that never become empty, surf instructors, wellness experts and two of your very own dedicated hosts working day and night, reached via WhatsApp to arrange every detail of your day, from dinner bookings to updating you on the daily weather forecast.

For families

Although not exclusively advertised to families, the hotel comfortably caters to little ones. With all menus offering child-friendly portions, nannies onsite should mum and dad like to dine alone on a date night and many activities, including snorkelling, paddle boarding, chocolate making and turtle releases to keep children more than entertained.

Who comes here?

There’s no denying that you’ve got to have plenty of cash to come here. With villas starting at £1,550 a night, it’s time to start saving.

We meet lots of bright-eyed honeymooners who have combined a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Nihi with a few nights in Bali, as well as plenty of multi-generational American and European families on extended summer breaks.

Eco effort

The resort's main initiative, The Sumba Foundation, is funded through hotel profits and generous guest donations. The foundation's primary goal is to improve the island's deficient water supply. So far, it has built 60 water wells and created a system of 250 water stations to supply clean water to 25,000 locals. Another project run by the foundation is to tackle the island's malaria rates. Training and educating students on preventative measures has reduced malaria infection by around 93 per cent.

Accessibility

This hotel isn't accessible for wheelchair users.

Anything else to mention?

Make sure you ask your host for the time the horses will be released from the stables and run freely down the beach. It’s a magical sight you won't want to miss. Also, if you intend to stay on the island for a week or so, it’s worth exploring the north side for a totally different experience. There are green rolling hills, waterfalls and lots of hiking trails.

Is it worth it?

Book for a special occasion. This is a hotel stay you won’t forget anytime soon, with experiences made to match.