SUJÁN Sher Bagh

Why book?

Sher Bagh floats in the same stratosphere as the highest-end wilderness camps in the world, and the Indian jungle experience is unparalleled.

Set the scene

In the state of Rajasthan, where royal palaces, ancient forts, and charming painted towns capture the imagination, lies Ranthambhore, one of India’s most game-rich and picturesque national parks. For wildlife enthusiasts, whether they’re couples, friends, or family groups, the sightings are abundant and a 15-minute drive away lies Sher Bagh, a spoiling and imaginatively put-together 12-tent abode that keeps you planted firmly under the spell of the jungle. Olive and beige earth tones, canvas and campaign furniture, and myriad photographs of the denizens of the jungles set the tone for this uber-chic camp, where every square inch ties together beautifully. In the common area, two expansive tents with high ceilings combine to create a wide sweep overlooking vistas of a grassland with the undulating hills of Ranthambhore as a focal point. On one end is the bar, a library, and lots of nooks to settle into for cosy conversations, and on the other side is the dining area. Both are open to the elements in the cooler months, but glass concertina doors and air conditioners stand ready to allay any extreme heat or sultriness.

Out on the wooden deck, one can keep an eye out for resident game and birds, or slip into the large, inviting swimming pool. Here, the Indian smart set and visitors from a vast array of nations gather to exchange stories. The chatter invariably informs you of the zones where sightings have been plentiful, giving you an edge on your forthcoming safari. Oftentimes, you might run into professional photographers or filmmakers. Keep your binoculars on hand to watch the antics of playful langurs and abundant birds such as woodpeckers, orioles, and rose-ringed parakeets that inhabit the leafy canopies. In the evenings, the guests exchange their stylish safari gear for near-formal evening wear, trotting out their Nehru Jackets with pocket-squares and floaty sateen dresses bolstered with cosy pashmina stoles as they sip Burgundy or pomegranate mojitos by the golden light of lanterns and a roaring fire.

The backstory

The owners of Sher Bagh, Jaisal and Anjali Singh, have wilderness in their DNA. Jaisal’s parents were at the forefront of discovering Ranthambhore on a filming mission half a century ago, and his uncle Valmik Thapar featured in the BBC series, The Land of the Tiger. They’ve published several books showcasing tigers meandering amidst ancient ruins and peacocks parachuting from the ramparts of their historic fort. They inhabited the forest and knew its seasons, denizens, and crannies well before Sher Bagh first opened in the year 2000. The game-drive focus is innate, and their naturalists, drivers, and guides are trained to the highest standard. Personal involvement sees them hosting frequently, slaking curiosity, and firing their guests’ imagination with riveting stories.

The rooms

Sher Bagh has 12 elegant tented suites, with the superior royal suite enclosed in a private space with a private swimming pool, and two imperial suites of the same standard that are tucked away for privacy and can accommodate a family of four or a group of friends. The capacious and stylish tents have been thoughtfully designed for comfort and relaxation. Canvas-covered solid walls keep the heating and cooling in and the crawlies out. There are indoor and outdoor showers and resplendent bronze bathtubs. The solid wood beds and furniture are beautifully crafted, along with a dash of playfulness and originality. Your personal valet can be summoned by pressing a bell that says “Jeeves.” When your eyes take in the space as a whole, a fetching panorama appears where tigers seem to lope seamlessly between the cushion tapestry and the wall paintings. (The word sher, after all, means tiger.) Even the ashtrays are brass pug marks. The retro-safari feel is amplified by objects such as hard-bound books, as well as antique leather valises and binocular cases.

Food and drink

A member of Relais & Châteaux, Sher Bagh is attuned to the highest standards of hospitality. As you walk to your jeep in the wee hours for the morning safari, a gleaming cauldron of hot porridge, honey, and rum is offered at a pit stop. Later, a mid-safari tea unfurls on the jeep’s bonnet, and you enjoy muffins, nuts, fruits, and munchies while taking in the scenic vistas. For the more substantial meals, both western and Indian cuisines are on offer, and you can pick from scrambled eggs, smoothies, and fresh hot croissants to chole bhature in the mornings. For lunch and dinner, opt for salads, soups, and pasta dishes or adventure deep into a traditional Indian pre-set thali with fluffy naans or crispy tandoori-rotis to dip into delectable lamb curries, lentils, and local vegetables picked fresh from the Sher Bagh farm nearby. The dining venues change regularly, and a great favourite is the al fresco tandoor area where visitors watch meals being prepared in traditional clay ovens and can even get a quick lesson from a stable of stellar chefs. If seclusion is desired, a glittering table can be set in the privacy of an atmospheric nook.

The spa

In a secluded corner of the seven-acre plot, a spa awaits you under the shade of a sprawling peepal tree. Here, deft, experienced hands massage away any cramps and knots garnered on bumpy jungle-tracks. A massage bed can be brought to your tent as well, enabling a seamless roll into deep slumber at nap time.

The neighborhood

Jeep safaris waft you away morning and evening into a truly magical forest with undulating hills and giant banyan trees. Ranthambhore is also known for its historic fortress, which looms on a hilltop, and the crumbling Mughal-era ruins scattered throughout, forming dramatic backdrops for photos. The forest is teeming with ungulates, including sambar, spotted deer, and nilgai, as well as tigers, leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles, and over a thousand species of migratory and resident birds.

The service

The folks at Sujan, the parent company of Sher Bagh, take great pride in training local staff to the highest standard, and many of them have stayed with them since inception. From the traditional Rajasthani-style low, folded-hand bow at the entrance to your personal valet’s keen attendance, each member of the team spares no effort in purveying what your heart desires.

Eco effort

Local and fresh produce is garnered from the Sher Bagh farm. Low lighting at night keeps emissions down and is attuned to the enjoyment of the twinkling vault overhead. The Singh family has played a significant role in conservation in Ranthambhore for close to 50 years, funding key anti-poaching and conservation initiatives. A small contribution is added to each stay, per person, per night, which goes towards conservation and community development projects in the area.

Accessibility

Sher Bagh can be reached via train from Delhi and other cities and it is well connected by roads. The nearest airport is in Jaipur, about a three-hour drive away.

Anything left to mention?

As most people who come here wish to optimise their wildlife sightings, the best time to come is in the dry season from December to March, when the foliage has shrunk and visibility is good. In the heat of April and May, the wildlife concentrates in the waterholes.