The Inn on Biltmore Estate

Why book?

Enfolded within the grounds of the opulent Biltmore Estate, the Inn uniquely summons what it was like to be a guest at the Vanderbilt family’s magnificent 19th-century manse, but with 21st-century luxury and comfort.

Set the scene

Asheville today is where hipster grunge meets Blue Ridge beauty, where a (post-Helene) revived River Arts District, famed for its galleries and craft breweries, celebrates edgy creativity. But in the late 1800s, the city’s draw was healing mineral springs, not IPAs, which is why George Vanderbilt built his lavish 250-room French Renaissance chateau here. With 35 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, three kitchens and a massive banquet hall among its four acres (!) of floor space, Biltmore House – a National Historic Landmark open to the public – was designed for hosting, and impressing, the Gilded Age’s A-list. Today, the Inn on Biltmore Estate, overlooking the jaw-dropping view of Mt. Pisgah and the Blue Ridge Mountains that seduced Mr Vanderbilt, offers that same refined hospitality. While the Inn and the Estate are just four miles south of downtown Asheville, the vibe feels worlds away (fewer tattoos, more collared shirts), thanks to Biltmore’s 8,000 acres, including Frederick Law Olmsted-designed private grounds and gardens that Inn guests have full access to roam, and the hotel’s general air of relaxed grandeur. Though not overdone, the Inn’s common area décor (impressive Baroque chandeliers, marble floors, wood-panelled reception area and library lounge, huge fireplace) echoes Mr Vanderbilt’s taste for the ornate, while friendly valets at the ready and two concierge desks harken back to the Biltmore’s heyday when a full house staff met your every need.

The backstory

Amazingly, in the era of corporate hospitality conglomerates, the Biltmore Estate and the Inn remain family-owned, with George Vanderbilt’s great-grandson, William A. Vanderbilt Cecil Jr., serving as President and CEO, and his sister as Chair of the Board. Cecil oversaw the opening of The Inn in 2001, making good, more than a century later, on his great-grandfather’s original vision for a hotel component to his country estate. With 210 guest rooms, including nine suites, and a towering two-story lobby, the family DNA for big and bold endures three generations later. The Inn offers conference and meeting space, as well as big lawns for receptions, but the bulk of clientele are guests and families visiting Biltmore Estate and those seeking the more serene, pastoral side of Asheville (Adirondack chairs on a stone veranda overlook the mountains; firepits nestled toward the woods are perfect for stargazing). Revenue from the Inn helps keep the broader estate solvent as one of Asheville’s top tourist draws and top employers, but even more, the Inn serves as an extension of the museum house – still America’s largest private home – offering plush hospitality as the Vanderbilts once did.

The rooms

Fresh off an extensive two-and-a-half-year renovation of all guest rooms and corridors, rooms now pop with period-appropriate William Morris wallcoverings of stylised nature-inspired patterns and Morris-inspired rugs. Carved wooden-framed headboards crowned with the Vanderbilt “V,” brass fittings, and references to Biltmore’s architectural details point back to an earlier era but are firmly dialled into the 21st century. Think medieval meets modern--less clunky Louis XVIth and more comfy armchair, with Kingsdown mattresses that are simply divine. Request a mountain-facing room if you can; what my Premier King room lacked in size (350 sq. ft.), it made up for with a large window looking out on the stunning Blue Ridge vista. The artwork is inspired by George Vanderbilt’s collection (knowing the family’s love of art, the National Gallery in DC chose Biltmore to store/safeguard part of their collection during WWII), with floral and animal print outtakes framed offset for a contemporary touch. The marble double-vanity bathroom has a spacious shower with lovely, vegan/toxin-free, sustainable Fillaree bath products made in Durham, NC.

Food and drink

The Dining Room on the Inn’s terrace level serves breakfast and dinner, both of which are a white tablecloth, red-rose affair, especially dinner. When our server handed us the dinner menu, its oversized black leather cover embossed with the elaborate “V” and its weight (inner pages are backlit, adding heft) was the first clue that this was an elevated experience. Many locals dine here for their special occasions, and when the hostess asked what we were celebrating, I answered “our anniversary,” which, though a month prior, was close enough. Our server was effusive in her congratulations and attention, especially to my husband’s nut aversion. A speciality cocktail menu showcased the “Biltmore Old Fashioned Series,” with 10 different newly fashioned Old Fashions, and I can attest that the traditional “Biltmore Old Fashioned” (Biltmore Woodford Reserve, Amaro Montenegro, Bitters) hits the spot. Main courses feature seafood as well as hardy classics – a filet ($68), a pistachio-crusted lamb rack ($72) – accompanied by sides sourced locally from the estate and nearby farms. An extensive wine list highlights Biltmore Winery vintages, among others. Breakfast (not included unless you book under the Bed & Breakfast special) is a choice of buffet ($35, yes on the banana French toast) or a la carte. For lighter, less-pricey fare, guests can enjoy shared plates at the Inn’s Library Lounge, or choose from five dining options down the hill at the estate’s Antler Hill Village, a pleasant 15-minute stroll away.

The spa

The Inn’s spa is where I most felt the Biltmore House ethos. Lots of velvet, ornate picture frames, dark rooms, formal chandeliers, and moody lighting. One thoughtful touch: the waiting lounge has a basket of readers and clip lights for reading and form-filling (it’s the little things, right?). My 50-minute massage was enhanced by a collagen face mask with pumpkin extract – a new one to me, but a welcome add-on that felt super luxurious.

The neighbourhood

“On” is the operative word at The Inn on Biltmore Estate. The uniqueness of this hotel is that it is fully of this place, tucked into the breathtaking landscape and “pleasure grounds” that Olmstead created. The “neighbourhood” is basically the forests and meadows that George Vanderbilt, founder of the nation’s first forestry school in neighbouring Pisgah National Forest (part of the 125,000 acres Vanderbilt once owned), ensured would be protected for posterity. You breathe easier up here amidst the green rolling hills, where there’s no traffic, no tall buildings, no hustle-and-bustle to detract from the surrounding natural beauty. But neither are you stranded. The shops and cafes of Antler Hill Village & Winery, just below the Inn and accessible via an easy stroll or complementary shuttle service, offer onsite options for dining and entertainment if you’d rather not drive into Asheville proper. Right outside the estate gates, the Shops at Biltmore Village offer plenty more. We grabbed a beer and burger and enjoyed free live music on the Antler Hill bandstand one evening. Bike rentals from the Bike Barn are a great way to explore the vast grounds via protected bike and walking trails along the French Broad River.

The service

A definite property perk: the Inn’s concierges have a direct line to the Biltmore House ticket office, and can help customise your tour experience. When we were running late to meet our private guide, she called him to let him know, alleviating our stress. They’ll also happily arrange bike rentals, guided bird walks, carriage rides, and speciality Winery tours. The Inn’s complimentary shuttle and trolley service makes it easy to navigate the grounds. Service in general was friendly but never overbearing.

For families

During our stay, the guests skewed more middle-aged and older – as you might expect for the historic house crowd – but there were young families as well. The infinity-edged pool (with hot tub for grown-ups) was a favourite for kids, and easy access to exploring the grounds, trails, and the onsite Pisgah Playground and Farmyard at Antler Hill is great for families seeking wholesome getaway options that are “more green, less screen.”

Eco effort

The Biltmore Estate, in general, embraces eco-friendly practices through renewable energy from its nine-acre solar field, and sustainable agriculture at the Farm and Winery, including composting all food scraps from the Inn and Antler Hill restaurants and converting waste vegetable oil into biodiesel to fuel property vehicles. All the Inn’s pasture-fed beef, eggs, and greens are sourced from the Biltmore Farm, without the use of antibiotics and growth hormones. George Vanderbilt envisioned his country estate as a self-sustaining enterprise, and today, his fourth and fifth generation family members strive to embrace that as much as possible.

Accessibility

Fully ADA compliant, including wheelchair accessible shuttles.

Anything left to mention?

Don’t miss a stop at the Biltmore Winery, located in the converted dairy barns that anchor Antler Hill Village. While tasting red varietals paired with locally made artisan chocolates, I was blown away to learn that the Biltmore Winery, which produces some 160,000 cases a year, is the most visited winery in the United States. That’s right, more than Napa and Sonoma or Virginia – all areas far more famed for their vino and vines than Western North Carolina. The Winery offers daily complimentary tastings, or you can upgrade for a speciality experience like our red wine and chocolate tasting.