The Ritz London hotel review

First impression British comfort at its absolute finest.
Staff Superlative – and deeply traditional.
Food & drink Gold standard.
Bed & bath Chintzy yet lavish.
The crowd VIP.
In a nutshell It doesn’t get much better than this.

Why stay?
For old-school glitz.

What is it?
Opened in 1906 by Swiss hotelier César Ritz, The Ritz is a London landmark and a bastion of glamour and sophistication. The Ritz is ravishing; it always has been, and always will be.

Behind the scenes
There have been a few changes at The Ritz since the turn of this new century, such as the acquisition of the magnificent William Kent House next door (César Ritz’s dream ever since he built the hotel), which is currently closed and for restoration. Yet the main public spaces – including the adored Palm Court and restaurant, aligned along the sumptuous gallery that runs the length of the building from Arlington Street at one end to Green Park at the other – remain little changed. Here you still have a sense, enhanced by the rich, warm, golden glow of this part of the hotel, of having found yourself preserved in amber. From the Rolls-Royce to the butler services, everything you could possibly want has been thought of.

Sleep
Rooms are furnished with fine fabrics, 24-carat-gold leaf and beautifully restored antique furniture in keeping with the original Louis XVI style. There’s an understated lavishness; no celebrity interior designers have been let loose and rooms have a lustrous palette of pinks, yellows and blues. One has a unique-stained glass window, another is a celebration of British past and decorated in rich tones that reflect the naval victory of The Battle of Trafalgar. The suites all come with butlers; take the two-bedroom Piccadilly Suite with its cornflower blue, white and cream, and rich rosy accents. It’s full of elegant lamps, cabinets and soft furnishings: impeccable without being over the top.

Eat
The Ritz’s afternoon tea is legendary – served in the many-mirrored Palm Court salon, deliciously grand and swimming in gold, with the tinkling of a live pianist. Select from a list of 20 teas and learn as much or as little about them as you like from the friendly but reassuringly formal staff (The Ritz’s tea sommelier has visited tea plantations around the world, tasting and experimenting to bring back the perfect blend). The food is proudly traditional: crustless sandwiches, gigantic warm scones, a cake stand tier devoted to macarons, chocolate cake, and fruit tarts.

Yes, afternoon tea is something special at The Ritz, but it’s the Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant that we really need to talk about. Once you’ve recovered from the sheer spectacle that is the dining room (the ginormous sparkling chandeliers! The towering marble columns! The floor to ceiling mirrored walls!) and made it to your table, sit back and relax as the staff work their magic. They move around the tables as though performing a well-rehearsed dance, carefully placing napkins over the diners' laps at the table next to us before turning and pouring wine – explaining every detail without spilling a drop – at our own. Each course is more opulent and delectable than the next; beautiful amuse bouches of delicate Dorset crab and caviar-topped beef tartare are followed by starters of langoustine and a velvety Parmesan egg custard with a sprinkling of truffle. This isn’t just dinner; it’s a full-on theatrical experience orchestrated by executive chef John Williams MBE, with abundant tableside flair and flame. Although the anjou pigeon a la presse is quite the spectacle, it’s the Crêpes Suzette that steals the show, doused and flambéed in Grand Marnier before us before being gently placed onto our plates in a perfect folded triangle. Despite the six previous courses, it’s gone in seconds, with just enough room for some of the best petit fours we’ve tried.

Who stays here?
The famous and the fashionable, heads of state, royalty, film stars.

We like
The superlative concierge desk; head Michael de Cozar has been at the helm for over 50 years, so there’s absolutely nothing he can’t do.

Out and about
With leafy Green Park on one side and Piccadilly on the other, this grande dame is within striking distance of many of London’s top sights, culture and shops. Around the corner is fashionable Jermyn Street, with its abundance of tailors, leather shops, art galleries and independent eateries. Fortnum & Mason is practically next door; pop in to pick up the smartest groceries in town.