Spanish singer Lola Flores once said, "Seville is like dreaming of heaven." Her celestial comparison is difficult to argue with. The honeyed light cast over this fairytale Spanish city is something otherworldly, particularly at sunset, when the Guadalquivir river glistens like an emerald and Seville's hulking monuments, like Metropol Parasol and Plaza de España, appear gilded in gold.
The capital of Andalucía is undoubtedly one of the country's most romantic cities, where spellbound flamenco guitarists blow through narrow, cobbled alleyways, strumming evocative melodies to everyone and nobody. In the old Jewish quarter, trees, dense with oranges, shade suited veterans sipping cortados in the picturesque, floral plazas.
Come spring, Holy Week and the Feria rouse the city from its sedate wintry slumber as thousands of old-school tapas bars chatter with life. Elsewhere, tourists gaze at Seville's grand cathedral, resplendent as ever under the glaring Andalucían sun. And if any of that whets your appetite, it's only the start. Here are the best things to do in Seville.
1. Wander around or watch a concert at the Royal Alcázar
Combining Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architectural styles, this splendid former fort is home to a patchwork of well-manicured gardens, elaborate patios, roving peacocks, crane-sized palm trees and decorative water features. The majestic palace was also famously filmed as the setting of the Kingdom of Dorne in Game of Thrones. The queues at the Royal Alcázar are long in summer, so book tickets in advance to save having to stand for ages in the searing heat. Alternatively, for something musical, look out for the concert series, ‘Nights in the Gardens of the Royal Alcázar’. From June to September, Europe's oldest active royal palace turns into a spectacular outdoor music venue showcasing everything from jazz to classical music and opera.
2. Visit the world's largest Gothic Cathedral
It's hard to miss the broad-shouldered stone structure of Catedral de Sevilla. Usually swarming with tourists, horses and carts and a scattering of flamenco dancers, this (mostly) 15th-century construction is said to be where the bones of Christopher Columbus are kept – the entrance gives visitors access to view his tomb. Interestingly, the towering Gothic cathedral was built on the site of a mosque erected by the Almohads in the 12th Century when the Moors ruled over Spain. Remnants of Al Andalus can still be seen today – La Giralda, the cathedral's bell tower, formed the central mosque's original minaret. Climb the tower for spellbinding views across Santa Cruz, the Judería (Seville's old Jewish quarter), The Royal Alcázar and beyond.
3. Explore the city's landmarks, parks and neighbourhoods by bike
As a remarkably flat, sun-kissed city, Seville is among Europe’s most cyclable destinations, with nearly 200km of bike lanes that wind around famous parks, skirting landmarks, and running parallel to the Guadalquivir River. Grab a red-rimmed SERVICI, a council-operated service offering over 2600 bikes, and pedal your way around the city using the interactive map. Or opt for a spin through the city's neighbourhoods with Bike Tour Seville, which offers guided tours around the Andalusian capital with pit stops at all the landmarks, plus some lesser-known sights like the Tabacalera (Tobacco Factory), as well as fables, anecdotes and history lessons about the 'Golden Age of Seville'.
4. Go bar hopping around the city's sunny plazas
Seville has some of Spain's most beautiful plazas, each showing a glimpse of Andalucían life. Come the weekend, it's wise to head to Plaza del Salvador at lunchtime and occupy one of the high tables at a bar opposite the rose-hued church of the same name. People watch to their heart's content as congregations stream out of weekend services, twenty-somethings slurp cañas of cold Cruzcampo, and families devour raciones of solomillo al whisky. Alternatively, spend a few hours reading in Plaza Alfalfa. Grab a table outside Taberna Alambique, where the mushroom risotto is excellent. Pause at the romantic Plaza Doña Elvira to breathe in the scent of orange blossom and admire the ceramic azulejo tiles, or duck into the Plaza de Santa Cruz for a moment of calm within the bustling Judería neighbourhood.
5. Enjoy the nightlife around Alameda de Hércules
Dive bars, vegan cafes and sun-soaked terraced restaurants line the perimeter of the lively, bohemian plaza of Alameda de Hercules. Though less polished than other parts of Seville, this enormous square is one of the main places to head for the nightlife. The area is also known for its LGBTQ+-friendly credentials, with lots of live music, fun crowds, and bars bursting into the streets until the wee hours. Start with a gin and tonic at the unruffled, laidback Lola por Dios before heading to Espacio Eslava for elevated tapas, then onto The Corner House for cocktails on the boutique hotel's cute rooftop bar. Round the evening off at 1987 Bar for an evening spent bopping along to eighties tunes.
6. Experience one of the city’s iconic spring festivals
Spring is one of the best times to visit Seville. Not only are temperatures more bearable, but the city is alive with traditional fiestas. During the Easter Holy Week, known here as Semana Santa, expect shoulder-to-shoulder crowds observing night and day processions led by solemnly garbed folk from the city’s various cofradías (brotherhoods) who march through the streets bearing heavy floats with ornate sculptures depicting biblical scenes. Weeks later, the mood changes from sombre to celebratory when locals of all generations, donning dapper suits and vibrant flamenco dresses, are seen streaming over the Triana bridge on their way to the Feria. A visit to this unique country fair is like being plunged into the heart of Andalusian history and culture: picture striped, brightly coloured casetas (large tents that look like French Fancy cakes), bursting with well-dressed locals swilling glasses of rebujito (sherry and lemonade) and dancing sevillanas.
7. Explore the art scene, from old to new
Pore over work by Baroque masters, like Zurbaran to Murillo, at The Seville Museum of Fine Arts (there’s also a local art market every Sunday morning out front). For something more modern, venture across the river to explore the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC) – set in a 13th-century monastery – to see various permanent and pop-up exhibitions, from work celebrating contemporary Andalucían painters to renowned abstract artists and internationally recognised photographers. Elsewhere, commercial art dealerships like Rafael Ortiz – set in an 18th-century palace – and Galería Haurie are among the city’s longest-standing, while Delimbo was founded in 2006 to specialise in contemporary street art. Espacio Derivado, a multidisciplinary venue for exhibitions, workshops and events, and Espacio Sacáis are centres devoted to young, emerging artists around Andalucían.
8. Climb the world's largest wooden structure
Located in the city's heart, find the hulking, modernist sculpture of Metropol Parasol, more commonly known as Las Setas (The Mushrooms) due to its striking resemblance to the fungi. Though it caused a stir when it was first built – mainly due to its odd contrast against its otherwise old-world surroundings – it's now an iconic and much-loved monument. The 28-metre-odd installation, designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer-Hermann, is said to have been inspired by the gargantuan trees at nearby Plaza Cristo de Burgos and the vaults of Seville's cathedral. Head to the top to enjoy sweeping views over the city's rooftops and spires, or admire it from the many tapas bars surrounding Plaza de la Encarnación below.
Address: Setas de Sevilla, Pl. de la Encarnación, s/n, 41003 Sevilla, Spain
Website: setasdesevilla.com
9. Take a boat ride along the storied Guadalquivir river
With dreamy views and a rich maritime history, the Guadalquivir River has shaped the identity of Seville for centuries. Famously, Spain’s only inland port is where Portuguese seafarer Ferdinand Magellan set sail from on what is considered the first circumnavigation of the globe. However, he died during the voyage, so Spaniard Juan Sebastián Elcano later returned the ship. It’s also here that ships loaded with gold, silver, and spices were required to pass through when returning from the Americas (visit the Archive of the Indies museum to learn more). Take a riverboat ride along its chalky green waters while admiring sites like the Torre del Oro (golden tower), the famous pastoral facades of Calle Betis and the 19th-century Puente de Triana. Alternatively, hire a kayak, rowing boat or paddle boarding and pootle along at your leisure.
10. Experience some of Spain's best flamenco
Andalucía is the birthplace of flamenco - and many trace its roots to the Triana neighbourhood in Seville, which was historically home to the city's gitano (‘gypsy’) population. In honour of the fabled origins, add a few tracks to your playlist before hopping on a plane – famous Sevillean artists like Aurora Vargas and Juana la del Revuelo are good places to start. Head down to La Carbonería for a laid-back, free flamenco show of music and dance; housed in a rustic industrial building with long wooden tables, it has a bar selling run-of-the-mill tapas and a terrace skirted by plants. For a proper cabaret-style show and an up-close encounter with the footwork, clapping and shouts of olé, go to a tablao (which often also offer food and drink) like Los Gallos, El Arenal or Las Setas. Or for a more polished, theatre-style experience, visit the Teatro Flamenco de Triana to see some of the best local talent light up the stage.
11. Book a food of the Triana neighbourhood
It’s news to nobody that Seville is blessed with a wealth of classic tapas bars, numbering, they say, in the thousands. As a general rule, avoid the tourist traps surrounding the cathedral – those with plastic menus and overzealous waiters trying to drag you in. Even better, lean on local experts, like the folk at Devour Tours, a company offering four food tours led by knowledgeable local gourmands. Choose from a general tapas tour, with a side of history, to a more specific jaunt around the city, like one that explores the lesser-visited Triana neighbourhood: expect under-the-radar restaurants serving the best-grilled pork in town, or timeworn taverns peddling fresh Manzanilla sherry. It’s hard not to fall in love with this lively neighbourhood’s foodie culture, which ranges from nibbles and fresh produce at Mercado de Triana to stylish contemporary establishments offering inventive tasting menus
Website: visitasevilla.es
12. Wander around Maria Luisa Park and visit Plaza de España
Maria Luisa Park is Seville’s most famous, greenest and prettiest park. Wile away hours strolling its snaking paths, shaded by overhanging pines, palms and orange trees. Pass idyllic lilypad-strewn ponds and grandiose fountain-filled ‘glorietas’ (roundabouts) named after famous Spanish artists and poets like Goya and Bécquer. It’s home to Plaza de España, marked by a massive curved construction designed by Seville’s famed architect Aníbal González. This sprawling plaza is a riot of painted azulejos tiles, pretty bridges and noble arches surrounding a central fountain. Like many of the city’s landmarks – including the Alfonso XIII hotel and various pavilions in Plaza de América – it was created for Seville’s 1929 Expo, a significant turning point in the city’s position on the world stage as a leader in creativity and innovation.
Address: Plaza de España, Av. Isabel la Católica, 41004 Sevilla, Spain
Website: getyourguide.co.uk
13. Discover the city’s rich ceramics history on the banks of the river
Across the river from central Seville lies Triana, an area historically home to flamenco dancers, bullfighters, seafarers and artisans. Today, this increasingly trendy neighbourhood still has strong ties to ceramics, a craft practised in the barrio for centuries. Pop into any workshops on and around Calle Antillano Campos to purchase your favourite azulejos tiles. Better still, visit the Centro Cerámica Triana, a museum spread across two floors, to learn about the history and production process, and see exhibitions showcasing work by the region’s excellent practitioners. Alternatively, book a tile painting class at Barro Azul for a more hands-on introduction to ceramics.
14. Shop for locally made clothes, crafts and thoughtful gifts
Head down to Seville’s most famous flea market, El Jueves, to peruse bounties of antiques, furniture and bric-a-brac covering the cobblestones of Calle Feria every Thursday morning. Those in the know finish at Mercado de Feria, an open-air neighbourhood market selling all kinds of Andalucían produce, from olive oils and regional wines to fresh fruit, meat and fish. For handmade wares and thoughtful gifts, visit Calle Águilas, an unassuming street off busy Plaza de la Alfalfa, home to independent jewellery stores like Carambola and ceramics shops such as Artesanías de Sevilla, selling gorgeous azulejos tiles. There are impressive sculptural pieces at The Exvotos, endless antiques to marvel at in El Patio and fancy tablelinen to fit in the suitcase at Alquitara.