Thuwal Private Retreat, Red Sea, Saudi Arabia

Why book?

At this ultra-exclusive retreat on Saudi’s Red Sea, the only other guests are the ones you invite. Six boho-chic villas scattered across the island, endless stretches of powdery white sand, an overwater diwaniya lounge, sunset deck, shisha snug, gaming den and starlit outdoor cinema — it’s all yours.

Set the scene

A 45-minute drive from Jeddah’s King Abdulaziz International Airport, followed by a zippy yacht ride brings Thuwal into view. Check-in takes place at the diwaniya on the jetty, and from there, it’s straight to the villas.

Perched at the tip of a fish-shaped lagoon, the resort is delightfully compact, with sandy paths meandering between its six villas along the island’s western edge, each framing endless views of the Red Sea. Tucked between are a well-equipped gym, open-air beach bar and serene spa complete with a Jacuzzi pool and sauna.

The backstory

Among a cluster of royal islands just off the coast of Jeddah, Thuwal was once largely forgotten, marked only by a lone overwater villa built in 1997, linked to the shore by a sun-bleached wooden walkway.

Enter Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s Vision 2030 reforms — an ambitious agenda to steer Saudi’s economy away from oil and into forward-thinking industries like tech and tourism. By 2019, the island was handed over to Red Sea Global (RSG) – the government-owned developer – with plans to turn it into a world-class tourism destination.

The original blueprint envisioned Maldives-style overwater villas stretching out on walkways from the main island. But instead, this fully private resort is a trailblazing first for Saudi Arabia and the wider Gulf region. And one that suits Saudi's upper tourism market, in which wealthy multi-generational families routinely book out entire resorts. Until now, those options were confined to far-flung destinations in Asia or Europe. Thuwal Private Retreat brings that exclusivity to Saudi shores.

The neighbourhood

The surrounding waters are a snorkeller’s dream — waist-deep for almost half a mile before easing into a gentle drop-off, ideal for gliding over vibrant coral reefs with no need to dive or squint to spot the marine life below.

I take the Seabob for a spin — a $10,000 underwater rocket that zips through the reef at swimwear-shifting speeds. In seconds, I’m nose-to-nose with barracudas stalking sardines, toothy parrotfish, lurking urchins, snappers and the occasional octopus. Nearby, the island’s former residents left their mark with a striking, rock-ringed natural pool near the diwaniya, offering yet another superb spot to soak up the sea.

Other water activities at the resort include stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking and scuba diving. For something a little more futuristic, hop on an e-foil — an electric-powered surfboard that lets you hover above the waves.

The rooms

Vaulted wooden ceilings with exposed beams lend a breezy, open feel to each of the six villas, with woven wicker pendants dappling warm, golden light across soft, sand-hued sofas and textured rugs.

Floor-to-ceiling windows glide open to unveil private decks, with the main residence boasting an expansive pool area flanked by crisp white sun loungers, al fresco dining spots and gentle steps leading straight out onto the beach. The remaining rooms – which can be converted from doubles to twins – come with their own private walled terraces featuring outdoor bathtubs for tranquil, starlit soaks.

Interiors are dotted with curated ceramics, rich wooden accents and bursts of tropical greenery, with the contemporary open-plan design drawing inspiration from the intricate rawasheen lattice windows of Jeddah’s historic Al Balad district.

Food and drink

Menus at Thuwal are tailored with almost psychic precision, as staff casually glean your preferences. One offhand comment to Bilal, the butler, about my love for Greek food, and by morning, a sprawling Aegean-inspired feast appears poolside — hearty bowls of cubed feta drenched in golden olive oil, fluffy omelettes piled high with grated graviera, smoky tirokafteri whipped up from fresh roasted peppers and glistening galaktoboureko custard rolls dripping in sweet, sticky syrup.

Behind the pass is Chef Ahmed Fattah, whose two decades at the Four Seasons in Cairo are visible on every plate. He’s joined by Lalu Banyu, who covers off pan-Asian standards with umami-packed Japanese bowls and lunchtime spreads inspired by his Indonesian roots.

Together, they cover an astonishing range — quinoa-studded baba ghanoush salads share the table with decadent truffle-parmesan fondues and elaborately plated creations that wouldn’t look out of place in a Michelin-starred kitchen.

This is Saudi Arabia, so alcohol is off the menu — but you won’t miss it. The beach bar shakes up zero-proof spins on classic cocktails, while in-room fridges come stocked with booze-free wines and champagnes.

The spa

With just a single couple’s treatment room and a concise menu of nature-inspired massages, facials and scrubs, the spa pavilion is small but perfectly formed. The therapists, handpicked from RSG’s Shebara resort further up the coast, bring well-practised expertise, with treatments taking place inside or outdoors on the terrace by the lapping waves.

The service

The resort is led by a tight team of well-travelled, charismatic Saudis supported by hospitality hires from across the Middle East and Asia. Switching seamlessly between stiff-shemagh service and beachy vibes depending on guest preferences, the Thuwal team strikes a balance between polished professionalism and charm.

Here, hospitality is rooted in the Saudi tradition of hafawa — a nod to the Bedouin days when desert wanderers were welcomed with open arms and offered food, warmth and shelter for up to three days, no questions asked. At Thuwal, you’re paying for the privilege, but by the time you’re packing up, the team feels more like old friends than staff.

Ahmad, the island’s energetic food and beverage manager, bursts into dinner to unveil his latest masterpiece — a zesty, alcohol-free riff on the classic piña colada with a splash of vanilla and orange juice. Served in a hollowed-out pineapple and named the “Ret-lada” (a nod to Thuwal’s retreat status), he proudly declares it the island’s new signature sip, perfected after days of fine tuning.

At breakfast the next morning, a new face appears. It’s Mohammed, the resort’s security guard, stepping away from his dockside post to brew me a pot of black tea the way his family has done for generations.

As with any private resort, guests can make all the demands they like, but the real magic happens when you let the staff take the reins. Island manager Sara Al Marghalani, once the only Saudi to work in the Maldives, will jet anywhere in the world pre-check-in to meet guests face-to-face and create an itinerary tailored to their whims.

To maintain guest privacy, there are no security cameras in the island’s public spaces — yet the resort team has an uncanny knack for keeping tabs on pretty much everything. I casually mention a sore throat, and I'm asked whether I need a top-up of the dwindling stash of lozenges I’d been keeping by my bed.

Later, Bilal, the ever-attentive butler, asks about my crack-of-dawn beach stroll — the one I was sure I’d snuck off for unseen. Yet it doesn’t feel nosy or intrusive. It’s razor-sharp attention to detail, dialled up to 11, all feeding into Thuwal’s hafawa from the heart.

For families

With itineraries crafted completely from scratch, the experience can be tailored with activities for little ones. Staff can child-proof villas by tucking away delicate decor and adding child-friendly touches, ensuring peace of mind for parents. One of the resort’s female butlers doubles as a trained au pair, offering expert care for younger guests.

Eco effort

Set on a natural island, Thuwal treads lightly on its surroundings. The diwaniya lounge, originally built in the late 1990s, predates the newer villas and facilities, ensuring the seabed remained untouched during construction. While the resort currently runs on a generator, plans for an on-site solar farm promise a more sustainable future.

Accessibility information

All of Thuwal’s villas and facilities feature flat entrances for easy access, while the gym building houses a fully accessible bathroom with wide a wide door and grab bars. The resort also offers a specially designed beach wheelchair with oversized wheels for effortless exploration of the sandy shores.

Anything left to mention

The price for up to 12 guests with all meals included, puts Thuwal on par with high-end Maldivian villas when split among a group. However, the nightly rate doesn’t cover everything; water activities, spa treatments and transfers come with an extra charge.