Welcomhotel By ITC Hotels, Pine N Peak

Why book?

To experience Kashmir beyond the postcard shots of Srinagar and Dal Lake. And for a throwback to the times when Kashmir was the chosen backdrop of the Bombay film industry. Complete with rolling meadows, views of the snow-capped Himalayas, and lines of deodar and pine forest against which the actors danced and romanced, this was the place which was regarded as “Switzerland of the east” and the most popular hill station for every summer holiday. As the only five-star property in Pahalgam, this hotel is the perfect base for exploring one of India’s most dramatic landscapes by day, returning each evening to rooms with walnut-carved warmth and kahwa tea by the fireplace.

Set the scene

The two-hour drive from Srinagar is smooth and scenic all the way. Pass through charming villages with wooden homes and carved windows, and apple orchards where hawkers sell their freshest pickings. For most of the journey, the sparkling Lidder River keeps you company. Witness the raw beauty of Kashmir in all its magnificence: soaring pines, horses grazing in intensely green meadows, noisy sheep being herded along the winding roads. The hotel doesn’t announce itself; instead, it reveals itself quietly. Branching off from Pahalgam’s main town centre, the Aru road winds gently upward through a dense pine forest. The final stretch narrows, trees closing in on both sides before the valley suddenly opens out. From this height, the Himalayas close in around you and the Lidder shimmers through the valley below. Built in traditional style with sloping roofs, carved eaves and wide terraces, Pine n Peak is the Kashmiri version of a Swiss chalet.

It’s almost always a varying degree of cold outside, but inside, the hotel carries the warmth of a Kashmiri home – walnut panelling, carved latticework, handwoven rugs, and copper samovars that nod to the local craft. Large windows frame views of the forest and the snow peaks beyond so that the outdoors almost feels within reach. The hotel gardens stretch all around it and spill into the forest. On a cool summer’s day, enjoy a drink under the sun on one of its benches and listen to the sound of the river beyond. In the evenings, sit and enjoy a barbecue or a bonfire outside or remain indoors and feast on a richly spiced meal of gostaba, rogan josh, haak and nadru – comforting, slow-cooked and full-bodied Kashmiri staples.

Food and Drink

Mornings at WelcomCafe Lolaab start with saffron-kahwa in copper cups while the first light hits the pines outside. This is a restaurant for families and their menu covers Kashmiri classics, Pan-Indian, Oriental, and Continental—basically everything. Sit by wide windows overlooking the valley or the garden, while butterflies and monkeys frolic in the summer and snow piles up in the winter. Gulistaan, the garden restaurant, is even better. Outdoors, under open sky, settle under low lantern light and watch the barbecue specialists work trout, meats, and vegetables over charcoal.

Saahil Tea Lounge is where to go when you don't want a full meal but aren't ready to go back to your room. Plush seats, warm lighting, nun chai or kahwa, maybe a pastry, make this a good place to linger. The food across all three leans local when it can – mutton pulao, tandoori trout, haak and nadru with proper spice. The hotel does not serve alcohol, but you can carry your own.

The rooms

The hotel has 69 rooms and suites spread across the main building as well as separate cottages. Other than walnut panelling, they’ve got tapestry headboards, embroidered cushions. It’s warm and comfortable without being overdone, which feels right for a mountain hotel. Besides, not much time is spent indoors because there’s far too much natural beauty in the area beckoning. Most rooms have balconies overlooking either the pine forest or the Lidder Valley. The larger suites add sitting areas and working fireplaces, which are cosy when evenings get cold. There’s also a Presidential Suite spread across two floors, at 170 square meters, but for families, there are also cottages available with one, two and three bedrooms. The gymnasium by the poolside is well-equipped and overlooks the pool from floor-to-ceiling glass windows. The spa centre occupies an extended space that has an open courtyard in the middle and three large treatment rooms with open-to-sky bathtubs.

The neighbourhood

You come to Pine N Peak to explore the surroundings, and the options are endless. First, there is Pahalgam itself – walk around its tiny market shopping for spices, shawls and pherans. Or go for a stroll in the stunning park – clean, green and well-maintained and admire hydrangeas and tamarisk blossoms, which often get mistaken for cherry blossoms. There again, you can purchase souvenirs from hawkers who can only ever make a living in the summer. There’s also a golf course in Pahalgam, and it’s meant to be surprisingly good, and a riverside walk to clear one’s head or sinuses is always a good idea. It is further down the Aru road, really, though, that the Himalayas begin to loosen their shoulders. Ten minutes into the Aru Valley, and the air gets crisper. It is a terrain yet unspoiled by ‘development’, which also sadly means it shan’t remain so for long. But for now, the meadows are green and empty. Betaab Valley, named after a Bollywood film nobody remembers, has better river views and fewer tour groups (go early). Baisaran requires either a pony ride or a steep-ish walk. But the meadow at the top is worth the discomfort. Chandanwari, the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra, which draws pilgrims by the thousands in summer, is also merely 16 kilometres away.

The service

Kashmiri’s have a natural flair for hosting – and the people here seem to take that seriously. There’s a gentleness to their interactions that somehow feels less transactional than one might expect at a five-star resort. Whether that’s cultural or training, it’s hard to say, but it works.

The hotel organises outdoor excursions efficiently, providing guides and transport, along with packing a picnic to take along.

For families

There’s a dedicated children’s play area at the hotel and a game room with board games and a billiards table. Since the hotel is set just above the valley, you’re never too far from ponies, the park or the riverside. There’s also an amusement park nearby with plenty of rides to tire kids out thoroughly. In Betaab Valley, sheep wander freely, and getting close enough to pet a lamb isn’t out of the question. The greatest luxury, though, is that children can play around the meadows and parks freely, without constant supervision.

Accessibility

The Business Centre, Fitness Centre, Banquet Hall, WelcomCafe, Lolaab and Saahil Tea Lounge are accessible, and there is an accessible parking area. Some rooms in the hotel are accessible and have wider doorways and other functional elements for those with mobility issues.