Whether you’re looking to partake in celebrating Chanukah or just looking for a little crispy, starchy, deep-fried deliciousness to get you through the short, grey London days, there are plenty of places to turn to for a little bit of latke love this season. Originally thought to be made from ingredients like ricotta in Italy, according to historian Gil Marks, before evolving to use other root vegetables like turnips, or grains such as rye or buckwheat flour, in the interest of keeping kosher when frying in schmaltz or chicken fat, which was more widely available than oil.
Now, latkes are essentially synonymous with potatoes, often with onions, grated or shredded and mixed before being fried in vegetable oil until crispy. The ‘great debate’ for many when it comes to latkes is what to top them with: be it salt beef, lox (cured salmon), sour cream, or applesauce. This Ashkenazi (Eastern European Jewish diaspora) food can be found around London with pop-up events and menus like those at Tollington’s Fish Bar, Oren Deli and Honey & Co, as well as year-round. For those craving something crispy, carby and deep-fried, here are a few great spots to scratch that itch.
Tongue & Brisket
Available on the menu year-round for £2.20, surely a freshly fried pick-me-up latke is just what the doctor ordered to combat any less-than-ideal winter weather in London. Crunchy, salty, and served in a little bag, a la McDonald's hash brown but so much better, Tongue & Brisket’s latke is worth seeking out via one of their three central London locations. or on the go.
Run by the grandchildren of founder Bambos Georgiou, Georgiou began his salt beef-laden career by helping to set up Brass Rail in Selfridges before going on to open his own establishment, B&K Salt Beef Bar, which notably offers a choice between latkes or chips on their children’s menu.
Now with three locations in central London, Tongue & Brisket straddles Ashkenazi-deli-food alongside London sensibilities in delicious ways. Embrace all of the seasonal foods with one power move: order their ‘Christmas sandwich’ with house-roasted turkey, gravy mayo, crispy onions, spiced red cabbage, sage & onion stuffing & cranberry sauce and a side of latkes, seeking pleasure in alternating bites. Don’t forget to pick up some 21-day brined house-cured salt beef to take home for future you, too.
Address: locations across London
Website: tongueandbrisket.com
Bubala
Inspired by the confit potatoes at Quality Chop House, these layered, fried and crispy confit potato latkes meet melt-in-the-mouth confit potato latkes are a labour of love, served at the vegetarian restaurant’s two London-based locations. With the addition of Aleppo chilli and a 30-clove toum in place of sour cream (or apple sauce), Bubala’s iteration is an ode to the humble spud and a blending of traditions inspired by the Jewish diaspora and beyond.
Address: locations across London
Website: bubala.co.uk
Brass Rail at Selfridges
Rated in the top five salt beef sandwiches by expert connoisseur ‘Young and Foodish’ aka Daniel Young, though the salt beef sandwich and Reuben at Brass Rail inside always-chic Selfridges may hog the spotlight (and rightfully so), those looking for a little potato-shaped shopping fuel might consider ordering potato latkes instead. Half a sandwich alongside a latke will certainly quell the hunger of even the most ravenous of shoppers. Or better yet, bring a friend and get the full-sized sandwich and a few latkes and stoke a little convivial fried food joy. ’tis the season!
Address: 300 Oxford St, London W1A 1AB
Website: selfridges.com
Nana Fanny’s
Whilst the famous Borough Market can be a source of both joy and overwhelm, depending on what day of the week you visit, there is something a bit magical that gets sprinkled over the market’s entirety when met with the festive cheer of the season. This feels doubly so if you are lucky or organised enough to turn up early in the morning, just as stalls begin to open up for the day. Serving a salt beef platter that comes with latkes, popping by Nana Fanny’s food cart is the perfect solution for those looking to try the American Jewish deli iteration, which swaps bagel or rye bread for a latke and swaps out salt beef for a salt beef and latke sandwich to remember. If it proves to be a little too much, there are plenty of snack-sized latke options too, with a variety of dips, salads and even ‘beef bits’.
Address: The Borough Market Kitchen Jubilee Place, Winchester Walk, London SE1 9AG
Website: nanafannys.co.uk
Reuben’s Deli
Known as one of the last, if not only, standing kosher restaurants in central London, Reubens in Marylebone is where to go for some of the classics, from egg and onion sandwiches to knish soup to pastrami or schnitzel. The only thing not mentioned on the menu is choice fatigue, but it’s there, too. Look to the ‘sides’ menu to find latkes at the top of the potato list. You could even go a bit off piste with an order of latkes, onions and mushrooms to build your own savoury latke tower.
Address: 79 Baker St, London W1U 6RG
Website: reubensrestaurant.com
In your own home
Following the recent release of East London pickle company Shedletsky’s new cookbook Tickle Your Pickle, which contains among other recipes a pickle and potato latke, the best latkes to be had in London might just be in your very own home!