Wickaninnish Inn

Why book?

For an amplified iteration of misty coastal Oregon. Its setting is a dreamy mash-up of Game of Thrones meets The Twilight Saga: New Moon, with the looming possibility that woodland fairies or white unicorns might emerge from the surrounding old-growth forest at the blink of an eye.

Set the scene

Poised on beloved Chesterman Beach in the quiet, laid-back surf town of Tofino, “The Wick,” as you’ll hear locals and staff refer to it, is the place to stay. Given the undertaking to get to the remote locale on Vancouver Island (it’s a five-hour drive from Victoria or an hour flight or floatplane trip from Vancouver), guests have made the trek for good reason, with ocean, beach, and rainforest all bundled into one.

Expect to see adventure-seeking couples dressed in Patagonia puffers, Arc’teryx hiking shoes, and wool hats swapping daily itineraries, preferred storm-watching sites, and the best area hikes in front of a hammered copper-clad lobby fireplace. At night, traces of rugged quiet luxury emerge at The Pointe Restaurant with diners in cashmere ponchos and designer camera bags.

The backstory

In 1955, Dr Howard McDiarmid relocated his family across Canada to the remote town of Tofino to take on a new post as the region’s physician at Tofino General Hospital. Almost a decade later, a now-defunct Wickaninnish Inn on land that was part of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve was established by Robin Fells and Geoff Crawford, but closed its doors in 1977. Later, the McDiarmid family – who lamented the closure of the original hotel and dreamt of opening their own – took on the passion project with help from a stable of longtime Tofino residents. The Wick opened its doors in 1996 and is described as “rustic elegance on nature’s edge” by eldest son and maître de maison Charles McDiarmid. A year later, the property earned the Relais & Châteaux distinction.

The rooms

There’s no such thing as a bad view here. Accommodations are spread across two buildings, and decorations are nature-inspired, using reclaimed Douglas Fir and Yellow Cedar throughout. Premier Rooms in the Pointe Building offer two-directional views of the ocean, making them a romantic haven for couples, while rooms and suites in the Beach Building are best for families, as separate rooms and pull-out sofas are available. Other options for groups include the two-story Chesterman Beach Loft Suites with full kitchens. Here, staircases are lined with Red Alder bannisters and paintings by Canadian artist Fred Peters. Every single detail has been meticulously calculated with an artful balance McDiarmid calls “elements of sea and sand,” from hand-blown glass art by local maker Sol Maya to fireplace mantle pieces carved by the late Henry Nolla, whose namesake carving shed is a short stroll away from the hotel.

Bathrooms are equipped with heated floors, rain showers, and soaking tubs, along with bath soak kits by Tofino Soap Company. Since a steamy cup of hot cocoa by your in-room fireplace is an absolute must, coffee bar stations are stocked with an assortment of artisan mixes by Sorrento, along with herbal teas and coffee.

As if it isn’t hard enough to leave the confines of the room – especially on blustery rainy days – there’s everything you could possibly need inside, including a complimentary first round of snacks. Binoculars are on hand for a close-up of bald eagles, sea otters, and grey whales, as is a small library of area-inspired page-turners and wilderness almanacks. If beachcombing or tide pooling strikes your fancy, there’s a set of Helly Hansen raincoats, waterproof pants, and umbrellas in the closet. (Housekeeping stocks rubber boots for guest use, too.)

Food and drink

Pick up breakfast at Driftwood Café, the Inn’s casual grab-and-go spot, before setting off for the day’s adventure. Dinner is a main event at The Pointe Restaurant, an award-winning eatery helmed by chef Clayton Fontaine (of Toronto’s Canoe and Vancouver’s Osteria Savio Volpe), marked by an octagonal-shaped copper fireplace and floor-to-ceiling glass windows yielding 240-degree ocean views. At the adjacent On The Rocks Bar, order the Feather George whiskey cocktail, garnished with finely shaved cedar curls handmade by resident woodcarver, George Yearsley, affectionately known as “Feather George,” or book a wine tasting experience or private dinner at Howard’s Wine Cellar, a sleek, cavernous space housing 10,000 bottles and a 20-foot-long yellow cedar table.

The spa

Local and organic spa lines, including Sangre de Fruta and Seaflora, made with island seaweed, are used for sense-of-place-inspired treatments, including the Cedar Escape (a sea salt body scrub exfoliation followed by a full body massage). Given the spa’s modest size with four treatment rooms, be sure to reserve an appointment well in advance of your stay.

The neighbourhood

Flanked on three sides by the Pacific Ocean and a rainforest near the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, you’ll feel tucked away yet close enough to Tofino village’s galleries, boutiques, and restaurants, just six minutes away. To learn about the town’s beginnings and lore, visit the Tofino Clayoquot Heritage Museum, or peruse hand-carved totems and original prints by Canadian First Nations artist Roy Henry Vickers at his eponymous gallery. Be sure to book at least one meal off-site. Tofino is known for its small but mighty culinary scene with lauded Canadian chefs, including Nicholas Nutting of The Wolf in the Fog and David Provençal of Ombré.

The service

It’s white-glove service all the way, without the literal white gloves. Don’t expect to lift a finger upon arrival. The concierge team can make anything a reality, from a private day trip with a gourmet picnic to visiting Hot Springs Cove via boat or floatplane, to bear-watching excursions with local outfitter James Whaling Station.

Eco effort

Sustainability is a main pillar at the Inn with a long list of certifications, a dedicated sustainability committee, and practices including EV charging stations; a fleet of eco bicycles by Priority Cycle; rooms appointed with recycled steel water bottles; and Vivreau Vi Tap water dispensing stations in each lobby.

Accessibility

There’s a wheelchair accessible ramp at The Pointe Restaurant, and elevators for access to all public areas and guestrooms, with specific rooms featuring lower counters, accessible showers and balconies. Portable commodes, shower chairs, transfer benches, and wheelchairs are available upon request.

Anything left to mention?

Check out rotating art exhibits at the on-site Henry Nolla Art Gallery with works from Canadian artists such as Craig Benson and Alicia La Rue. On Saturday mornings, sign up for a guided nature walk with Long Beach Nature Tours (also available on Wednesdays in summer), or embark on a foraging experience with Brite Collective for a crash course on local edible plants and wild mushrooms.

Lastly, the place has spellbinding powers known to lure even unswerving city dwellers for repeat visits and permanent moves, so don’t be surprised if you’re booking your next trip before your last day. (Note: The property closes every January for deep cleaning and renovations. Plans are underway for a new event space, Hemlock Hideaway, set to open this spring.)