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Review

Wilderness Bisate Lodge

The most salubrious and eco-conscious of base camps for gorilla safaris and explorations of the beautiful Volcanoes National Park
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Why book?

A luxury stay that infuses Rwandan culture and cuisine with a strong ecological ethos and sensational landscape views for visitors going on gorilla safaris.

Set the scene

This has to be one of the most visually distinctive lodges you’ll find anywhere. Its six cliffside villas, shaped like sci-fi orbs with thatch-effect roofing, look out onto Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, a landscape of trees and farmland backed by the three volcanoes – Bisoke, Karisimbi and Mikeno volcanoes. There’s a low-decibel buzz to this place, as bucket-listers, honeymooners and Hollywood A-listers gaze at the fabulous terrace views while sipping wine and perusing library books in anticipation of a gorilla safari.

The backstory

The first of Wilderness Safaris' properties in Rwanda, Bisate Lodge, was established in 2017 as a collaboration between the Rwandan government and Wilderness, which combines conservation with high-end tourism. They bought the land from 103 local landowners with the aim of reviving the natural environment and providing a safari base camp while boosting the local economy through community partnerships and reforestation projects.

The rooms

All six cliffside villas share the same stunning views of the Bisoke, Karisimbi and Mikeno volcanoes. Sinuous balconies are within touching distance of bamboo and hagenia trees that rustle with birds. I could have spent hours watching those yellow-bellied waxbills and Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds flitting among the branches.

The villa interiors feature Rwandan artworks and locally woven textiles. The architecture is inspired by Rwandan royal palaces: domed ceilings arch elegantly above furnishings accented with green and black-and-white geometric designs based on Imigongo, the traditional art from the Gisaka kingdom. There’s a small lounge area and fireplace by the bed, while the spacious bathroom contains standalone bathtubs and windows looking out onto the volcanoes.

Food and drink

Pastas, Asian-spiced pork belly, and other international cuisine are available alongside Rwandan dishes like sambaza (spicy fried fish) and kachumbari (a tomato-onion salad). Bisate sources its food as locally as possible, including fish from Lake Kivu and salads made with ingredients from the lodge’s own vegetable garden. Red-skinned potatoes come from a nearby valley, a local chicken farmer provides free-range organic eggs, while honey is purchased from locally owned beehives. South African wine features large on the wine list and includes premium reds from the bone fide wine cellar.

The spa

From December 2025, guests can visit the nearby wellness centre, The Sanctuary, which has ice baths, a heated, salt-water indoor lap pool, a steam room, massage treatment rooms, cocoon-like meditation pods, a yoga area and a fully equipped gym.

The area

Gorilla trekking isn’t the only reason to come here. The area surrounding the lodge, just south of Volcanoes National Park in northwest Rwanda, is a joy to explore. It sits in the distance, three volcanoes soaring above an agricultural landscape that Bisate is on a mission to return to its former forested glory. The reforestation program is already proving a success: Bisate’s camera trap, fixed to a gate less than a kilometre from the hotel villas, has captured serval cats, African buffalo, bushbuck, and even the occasional hairy gorilla arm. I spotted chameleons and jackals during my guided walk in the hills along the Imondo Trail, a route that skirts an ancient volcanic crater.

The service

Rwandans are very quiet, reserved and polite, so expect a similar service from the staff, who are also super helpful.

Eco effort

Bisate’s commitment to environmental conservation shines in everything they do. As part of their reforestation program, they have planted 90,000 native specimens, including redwoods and Lobelia, to replace the rampant, beautiful-but-alien eucalyptus tree. Guests are invited to plant a tree in the lodge’s nursery. Bisate have also set up several beehives in collaboration with a local co-operative; the bees contribute to reforestation by pollinating the flora.

Accessibility

As the villas are built on a steep hillside and accessible only via steps, they’re not suitable for wheelchair users.

Anything left to mention?

By the wine cellar, there’s a cosy library containing books about the Virunga region and Rwanda’s wildlife and culture.